Georges Kern on how Breitling continues to grow in the Southeast Asian luxury watch market

Kern asserts that Breitling has been one of the fastest-growing companies in the Swiss luxury watch market over the last couple of years, and it stems from communication. In 2022, Breitling celebrated the opening of its new boutique right in the heart of Greenbelt 5, coinciding with the 70th anniversary of its iconic Navitimer. To be more inviting, inclusive, and sustainable, the boutique exudes a youthful, industrial design that appeals to all ages and genders.

The CEO traces this paradigm shift to when a private equity company took over the then-family-owned business. With a new vision for Breitling, Kern intuitively addressed the needs of today’s market. For example, Kern noted Modern Retro, Breitling’s much-appreciated design identity, as something they must keep doing.

“In an over-digitalised world, [marked] with insecurity, you’d like to grab some elements of tradition if you want,” says Kern. “I think since then, even before COVID happened, we have done many things right—in terms of product design, product style, boutique style, and sponsorships—not only to differentiate us from our competitors but also to be resilient in a period of crises.”

What sets Breitling apart from its competitors is being a cool alternative to traditional watch brands. It boasts a clear design identity and versatility, as is evident in its varied range from conventional to electronic watches. 

“We also have what we call a ‘neo-luxury’ set of values—casual, sustainable, and inclusive,” says Kern. “After the pandemic, people now have a different view on what luxury means. Not only are we utilising blockchain technology to allow each watch to come with a digital passport and an NFT, it offers us to be transparent along our supply chain, such as where we source our precious materials and lab-grown diamonds that go into our watches. And lastly, we want to be approachable and accessible for our clients with no barriers between us,” Kern explains.

The Breitling CEO believes that every luxury brand needs to appeal to the global market and must be successful worldwide in terms of revenues. However, he admits that the brand was late establishing its presence in China, one of the largest luxury markets in the world.

Conscious of the brand’s tactical problems, Kern accelerated Breitling’s efforts to penetrate the markets of countries formerly beyond its radar.

“It will take a couple of years,” Kern says. “I know that in any cultural area, we are successful, but then we just have to do our job right.”

Kern shares that in the 2023 Morgan Stanley report, Breitling ranked ninth in the global luxury market. He credits this growth to the company’s use of a proven concept in its business strategy.

“What we have to do is more of the same, because the impact of a brand is the cumulative investment. It’s not because you invest one year you can say you’re already successful. You have to invest over years and years consistently, especially when you know that it works,” Kern says.

What challenges Kern today and his colleagues is that 10 per cent of Breitling’s target group knows the new Breitling. “Which means 90 per cent still have that image of big, bulky, polished, loud, aviator watch while we have totally changed over the last couple of years,” Kern continues. By aiming to expand the percentage of awareness of the new Breitling, Kern believes that it would later lead to conversion.

Kern finds leveraging iconic timepieces to be something other globally renowned luxury watch brands see as key to their success in the market. “But it’s not about reviving,” he says. “When something is good, why change it? People want the roots, the reassurance... so it’s an evolution—the shape design remains, and you would recognise it immediately.”

Asked which Breitling watch appeals to him the most, Kern mentions the Navitimer. “I’m also a big fan of the Breitling Classic Avi, which I am wearing today. I like the heavy, aviator’s watch that is the product of the 1930s to 1940s period. I’m an aesthete, so I like it for its design and beauty,” Kern says.

As to how the complications in the watch were brought upon, Kern leaves it to the engineers and watchmakers. But for acquirers and collectors of such impeccable timepieces, Kern advises to understand the concept of the technology and be able to appreciate their watches for their form and function.

“I always buy a watch for its appeal and because I like it. I would never recommend someone to buy a piece of art or watch purely for investment purposes,“ he says. “You have to appreciate the design. You might know particular brands of good investment value, but that should never be the motivation in my opinion.”

Now in his seventh year as CEO, Kern sees destiny as having guided him on his path to the luxury watchmaking industry. He started a business involving coffee and chocolates, but when another Swiss luxury watch brand called him to join its company, he found himself turning his life around to pursue a passion that has always resided in his heart. 

Kern’s father was a jeweller, so he was always connected to these kinds of products growing up. Later in life, he was educated in style, taste, and design, but it was never his father’s objective to bring him into this industry.

“In French, we say affinité. I think I’ve always had that towards craftsmanship. It’s sensitivity to the things around you, so growing up in that kind of environment, the affinity to watches and jewellery really grew on me, and then the rest is destiny,” Kern says.

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