Cover Model wearing a Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion ring
Model wearing a Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion ring
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The Parisian fashion house has consistently referenced its fashion codes for its timepieces
Arnaud Chastaingt is unfazed that Chanel is surrounded by major horological players at the Watches and Wonders trade show in Geneva. This distinction, he believes, allows the Parisian couture house to stand out in a crowded field of watchmakers.
“Fashion is our DNA and we’re proud of that,” says the director of Chanel’s watchmaking studio. “It’s okay to have a different point of view. For me, a watch is not necessarily only for the wrist. I’m sure if Coco Chanel had decided to design a watch, she would have had it on a ring or a necklace.”
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Since debuting its first watch in 1987—the aptly named Première—Chanel has consistently referenced its own fashion codes for its timepieces. For instance, the Première took its case shape from the bottle stopper of its iconic Chanel No.5 perfume, while its bracelet interlaced with leather was inspired by the chain of the 2.55 bag.
Above Believe it or not, these beautiful Chanel pieces tell time, albeit discreetly. They are inspired by the tools of a dressmaker, and collectively known as the Couture O'Clock Collection
Believe it or not, these beautiful Chanel pieces tell time, albeit discreetly. They are inspired by the tools of a dressmaker, and collectively known as the Couture O'Clock Collection
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Naturally, there is a tendency to assign the word “fashion” to its watches, downplaying their horological credentials. But Chanel, for all its couturier ambition, is serious about watchmaking, even investing in Kenissi, the movement maker that also produces for Bell & Ross and Tudor. Its emblematic ceramic J12 is now powered by the manufacture Caliber 12.1, developed according to its specifications by Kenissi.
While the Kenissi connection lends a certain prestige, Chanel was already developing original movements at its workshops in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cradle of watchmaking in Switzerland. In 2016, Caliber 1 first appeared in the Monsieur de Chanel, a wristwatch with a retrograde minute hand and a jumping hour. Four other calibers have been produced since then. Making its debut this year is Caliber 6, a mechanical manual-winding movement with an automaton function.
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Above Chanel J12 Couture Workshop Automaton, featuring its first mechanical caliber with an automaton function
Chanel J12 Couture Workshop Automaton, featuring its first mechanical caliber with an automaton function
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These heartbeats now inhabit an extraordinary capsule collection called Couture O’Clock. The inspiration? Instruments responsible for producing Chanel couture at the famous 21 Rue Cambon atelier. Comprising more than 10 timepieces, Chastaingt and his team have creatively translated everything from the busts to the thimbles and pin cushions into beautifully crafted timepieces.
“The atmosphere at Rue Cambon is amazing and dynamic. It’s like a dance, a beautiful energy of creation and amazing materials ‘jumping’ everywhere. I remember seeing a dressmaker wearing the pin cushion [on her wrist]. The pin cushion was black, and all the needles shone like diamonds against the dark surface,” recalls Chastaingt with a look of fascination.
This has been interpreted as the Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion with a quilted dial motif adorned with 18-karat yellow gold pins with pearls and diamonds. The timepiece is available as a titanium wrist cuff, a long gold necklace, and a gold ring.
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“[Chanel] was born from fashion. It’s inevitable that we have a different definition of the watch.”
Above Chanel Musical Clock Couture Workshop
Chanel Musical Clock Couture Workshop
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Chastaingt also remembers a picture of Coco Chanel in her workshop wearing a long ribbon, a pair of scissors hanging from it like a pendant. “When I saw it, I just had to capture the concept because it is so cool,” he says.
Perhaps none more so than the one-of-a-kind musical clock that conjures a scene in a seamstress workshop complete with five ceramic busts and gold chandeliers with diamond pendalogues, housed inside a clear glass dome. A gold key set with diamonds is used to wind the clock.
Then there is the J12 Couture Workshop Automaton Caliber 6, Chastaingt’s attempt at recreating the creative energy of the Rue Cambon atelier in a wristwatch. “It was important to capture that kinetic energy. And since I have always been fascinated by automatons, I thought this capsule collection was the perfect time to introduce one,” he says.
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Above Chanel Boy.Friend Couture watch
Chanel Boy.Friend Couture watch
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He adds: “The liberty of creation is an important element of the House. At Chanel, and not just for watches, we take the time to work on a project. We have a rule where we won’t launch anything until it’s perfect.”
This philosophy is Chastaingt’s guiding light as he works to elevate the creative designs of Chanel watches. “Style is very important to me but so is excellence in fabrication. For this, I’m proud to have a team who understands traditional watchmaking perfectly and is able to realise my dream. They are always up for the challenge.”
Chastaingt vows to never turn his back on Chanel’s fashion roots. He stresses, “The brand was born from fashion. As such, it’s inevitable that we have a different definition of the watch, but I think that only makes us more interesting.”
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Brian Cheong leads the watch (Tatler GMT) and jewellery content at Tatler Malaysia, combining sharp editorial insight with years of luxury lifestyle experience. A seasoned journalist in luxury watches based in Kuala Lumpur, Brian had previously helmed World of Watches, Men's Folio and Prestige Malaysia.
