Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 line undergoes a material change with new references in steel

Six new references bolster the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet line-up, while also ushering in an evolved aesthetic for the collection

Progressiveness is central to Audemars Piguet’s identity and watchmaking philosophy. It was what created the Royal Oak, which greatly contributed to establishing the segment of luxury sports watches upon its release in 1972. In the same vein, the brand’s forward-thinking was what spurred the development of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet, a line that has grown to become a key pillar for the Swiss luxury watchmaker. Other examples abound, with the common thread running through them being the manufacture’s daring, and how it has led to continual advancements in movement construction, material engineering, decorative techniques, as well as other related areas in watchmaking.

Above Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding in steel and black ceramic with smoked beige dial

Following the release of its most complicated wristwatch, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, the manufacture has followed up with six additional references to the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet line. Each has been cased in steel—a first for the collection—with the two references in smoked beige also sporting ceramic case middles. A total of three colourways will be offered for both the hour minute second and chronograph models. Far from being mere line extensions, however, the new timepieces sport various tweaks that point to an evolving collection bearing the same audacity that led to its introduction in the first place.

The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection has, until this year, been rendered primarily in pink and white gold, with some references featuring case middles in black or blue ceramic. According to Audemars Piguet’s CEO François-Henry Bennahmias, the arrival of steel references “is one of the natural steps towards a long and successful future for the line”. To that end, these new timepieces also showcase an evolved aesthetic that will be extended to existing references.

Above The brand new stamped pattern developed with Swiss artisan Yann von Kaenel

The most striking change here is undoubtedly the new dial, which has been stamped with a brand new pattern developed by Audemars Piguet in collaboration with Swiss artisan Yann von Kaenel. Consisting of concentric circles that radiate outwards from the dial centre, with a recurring series of depressions appearing midway to lend additional depth, the rippled motif plays with light in a complex way to parallel the case’s equally complicated construction. The pattern is, in turn, enhanced with the application of colour. For the green and blue colourways, physical vapour deposition (PVD) is used for an even hue. The beige tone, on the other hand, is achieved with a galvanic process that creates the “smoked” effect of a gradient that darkens visibly towards the dial’s edge.

Above From the typeface to the inner-bezel and even the crown, much has been done to update the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet’s aesthetic

Texture and colour aside, much more has been done to update the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet’s design. Note the baton-shaped hour markers, which replace the Arabic numeral indices previously used, or how the inner-bezel is now ever-so-slightly wider and more gently sloping for a more harmonious transition to the bezel. The markings on the flange have been refreshed as well; in lieu of markers being printed every five minutes on the inner bezel, a more detailed seconds scale now resolves the time down to the quarters of a second for greater precision.

There is also the new typeface on the dials, which deviates from the original’s elongated proportions for a more contemporary look. Finally, the crown and buckle have both been tweaked. The former is now shallower and more rounded, but has more pronounced indentations for better ergonomics, while the latter does away with the classic “Audemars Piguet” signature for the AP monogram.

Above The new 22k pink gold oscillating weight used in the new references

The two available models for the new timepieces are both sized at 41mm, and each is powered by Audemars Piguet’s latest-generation movements. The Automatic Calibre 4302 offers the basic hour, minute and second functions, and comes appropriately sized to keep the watch fairly thin at 10.7 mm while ensuring that its date display is proportionate to the dial. The movement also offers a longish 70-hour power reserve for convenience. Meanwhile, the Automatic Calibre 4401 integrated chronograph movement sports an equally long going time, and relies on a vertical clutch to ensure that backlash and hesitation are non-issues for the chronograph seconds hand. Both movements feature a brand new 22k pink gold openworked oscillating weight.

Above Audemars Piguet’s mastery over steel and ceramic is evident in how the components are meticulously finished

The new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet references in steel mark a new chapter for the collection, and points to a maturing line that has more than come into its own. What's particularly impressive is the synergy of materials, brought to life through thoughtful design and complex complications that seasoned aficionados will appreciate—while offering a dynamic gateway for new collectors to explore. These timepieces will be available from April 2023.

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Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet undergoes a material change with new references in steel