Cover Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar
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Tatler GMT rounds up exciting designs to wrap around the wrist
From the classic Rolex 1908 Perpetual to the embellished Cartier Clash [Un]limited, the handsome Patek Phillipe Aquanaut, and many more, these timepieces deserve a spot in your watch collection.
Dress Up
Say hello to a new member of the Rolex family: the Perpetual 1908, the first watch in the new Perpetual collection of classic contemporary watches. The “1908” in the name is derived from the year founder Hans Wilsdorf coined the name Rolex. The ultra-slim 39mm case, in white or yellow gold, comes with a white or black dial and features a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the new Caliber 7140 constructed to include the Chronergy escapement, the Syloxi hairspring and the Paraflex shock absorber, contributing to superlative chronometry. The leather strap is fitted with a Dualclasp—a double folding clasp—in gold that always sits at the centre of the wrist.
Above Rolex 1908 Perpetual
Rolex 1908 Perpetual
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Le Freak, C’est Chic
Ulysse Nardin’s Freak watch returns to its original simple but striking form—a movement that doubles as time indicators and a bezel taking on the crown's duty. Nevertheless, it has been customised with brilliant innovations since its inception in 2001. They include an escapement treated with DIAMonSIL (debuted in 2007), a silicon mainspring (2008), and a black DLC-coated titanium case similar to the one found on 2022’s Freak S.
Above Ulysse Nardin Freak One
Ulysse Nardin Freak One
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Worldly Charm
Taking Omega’s beloved Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer on a journey is more appealing than ever, thanks to the new lightweight and resistant titanium case. The material tone complements the dial in classic grey and black and the black ceramic bezel. The sombre colours also offer a more dramatic interpretation of its most distinctive feature: a laser-ablated Earth from the North Pole on the dial.
Above Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer
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On Time
Patek Philippe introduced the Annual Calendar to the Aquanaut collection for the first time and has notably chosen to do so in a ladies’ watch. The brand says that women want more complications, and it is meeting this demand with the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar, equipped with the new self-winding 26-330 S QA LU calibre. Crafted in rose gold with a blue-grey dial, it is the first Aquanaut Luce not set with gems. It features an inverted display for the day at 3 o’clock, the month at 9 o’clock, and the moon phase at 12 o’clock. While it is officially part of the ladies’ collection, at 39.9mm, this timepiece possesses a unisex appeal.
Above Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar
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Lasting Legacy
Tatler GMT was privy to the reveal of this piece, along with many other stunning jewellery watches by Cartier at Watches and Wonders 2023. But one look at the Clash [Un]limited, and you realise wearing it is a statement in its own right. The bracelet alternates brushed and satin-finished gold and one of the references features a new purple gold made by combining yellow and rose gold. A quartz movement powers the watch, and is water-resistant up to 30m.
Above Cartier Clash [Un]limited
Cartier Clash [Un]limited
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Aquatic Brilliance
Famed watch designer Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL Reference 1832 from the 1970s has been reinvented this year as the IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40. Boasting the same bold aesthetic as its predecessor, it is available in four new models: three in stainless steel and one in titanium. The standout has to be the reference in stainless steel with an aqua dial; this blue-green shade is a new signature colour for the brand and is enhanced with a “grid” design. All four Ingenieur Automatic 40 models are powered by the in-house 32111 calibre, with a power reserve of 120 hours and feature a soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields.
Above MoodIWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40
MoodIWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40
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Vintage Appeal
What’s old feels new today, a sentiment that Panerai has taken to heart when conceiving the California Dial PAM01349 that now comes in a smaller case size of 45mm. The case is made of Brunito Steel, which has been treated to give it a weathered appearance. Matched with a California dial in green with its mix of Roman and Arabic numerals, its retro appearance is incorporated with modern touches, from the domed sapphire crystal to the P.5000 calibre with an eight-day power reserve.
Above Panerai California Dial
Panerai California Dial
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Hello Gorgeous
Trendy green is taken up a notch by Girard-Perragaux for this collaboration with Aston Martin, appearing not only on the dial but also adorning the entire watch. This is rather remarkable, considering the material for the case and bracelet is ceramic, which requires a complex process to take on a specific colour. The Swiss manufacturer created a shade of green that matches the sunray green dial with cross-hatching for a truly captivating look.
Above Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition
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Mean Machine
Grand Seiko introduces its first mechanical timepiece with the Tentagraph, which boasts a high-beat movement with 72 hours of power reserve. Developed in-house at its studio in Shizukuishi, the Tentagraph Caliber 9SC5 is created from the base movement of Caliber 9SA5 and beats 10 times per second for excellent precision. More importantly, it features the energy-saving Dual Impulse Escapement, which transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and directly from the escape wheel.
Above Grand Seiko Tentagraph
Grand Seiko Tentagraph
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Peak Performance
With a new grey dial that mimics the icy surface of the Mer de Glace glacier in Mont Blanc, the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea evokes a sense of adventure with the goods to back it up. It is certified ISO 6425, tested against shock, temperature, and magnetic interference and is water-resistant up to 300m. Highly legible under all conditions, its Superluminova emits a low blue light in keeping with the frosty theme.
Above Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
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