Cover Riefe founder and jewellery designer Rie Harui at Joyce Pacific Place store (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
Riefe founder and jewellery designer Rie Harui at Joyce Pacific Place store (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
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Jewellery designer Rie Harui—best known as the creative force behind Yohji Yamamoto by Riefe—brings her bold and sculptural jewellery label Riefe to Hong Kong with Joyce Hong Kong
At once tough and tender, stark and intricate, Riefe Jewellery is known for emotionally resonant jewellery crafted from precious metals, dark gems and custom-forged chains. Behind the Tokyo-based label is designer and certified gemologist Rie Harui, who also serves as the creative director of Yohji Yamamoto by Riefe, the jewellery line of the legendary Japanese fashion house.
To Harui, jewellery functions as modern-day armour—something that should “lift the spirit” and help “fortify the self”. Her label is grounded in the philosophy of “beauty of strength”, which is expressed not only through design but also material choice. Founded in 2018, Riefe often favours 10-karat gold—a stronger, more durable alternative to traditionally prized 18-karat—because, as Harui puts it, “life’s too short to worry about scratches.”
This July, Riefe made its Hong Kong debut with a special trunk show at Joyce Pacific Place. Presented during an intimate in-store event, guests were invited to explore a curated edit of Harui’s edgy rings, bracelets and necklaces, each set with carefully selected natural stones such as agate, onyx, diamonds, pearls and amethyst. The brand’s off-kilter aesthetic is shaped by Harui’s eclectic background—from her immersion in the punk and rave subcultures of Los Angeles to her mentorship under former Chrome Hearts designer Guillaume Pajolec.
With Tatler, Harui reflects on Riefe’s debut in Hong Kong, her designs that incorporate pearls for the first time and why every piece of jewellery should feel like an extension of the self.
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Above Riefe founder and jewellery designer Rie Harui (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
Riefe founder and jewellery designer Rie Harui (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
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Congratulations on your trunk show at Joyce. What does this milestone mean to you?
Thank you. I feel truly lucky. Last year, I visited Hong Kong often, and in that time, I’ve learned a lot about the city and its culture. To be able to share my work here in this way—it’s an amazing opportunity.
How did your relationship with Joyce Hong Kong begin?
It all started in Paris. I present Riefe twice a year there, alongside four seasonal collections for Yohji Yamamoto. Joyce’s buyers saw my work, and then when I visited Hong Kong for Art Basel, we reconnected. It was very organic.
Which design best encapsulates Riefe’s brand DNA?
That would be the Noise ring. It’s been a signature since 2018 and is also sold through Yohji Yamamoto. It was inspired by music—specifically the visual waveform of sound, which I translated into a ring design. I also craft all of my chains from scratch. They’ve become quite popular and I’d love for more people to see them.
Above Riefe Noise ring (Photo: Riefe)
Riefe Noise ring (Photo: Riefe)
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How did music become such an integral influence in your work?
Music, art, architecture and fashion—they all connect. I’ve always travelled for music, from punk and rock festivals in my youth to the house and organic house I love now. But more than the music itself, it’s about the energy of a space. When I wear my jewellery to these events, the spatial balance—the lights, the people, the sound, my accessories—becomes part of the art.
What role did subcultures in Los Angeles play in shaping your aesthetic?
Los Angeles gave me an appreciation for free expression. It’s a city where cultures and subcultures coexist freely. That blend—of American boldness and French elegance—deeply influences my designs. The tension between contrasting styles creates depth.
Guillaume Pajolec is your mentor. How does he influence your work today?
I was greatly influenced by Guillaume Pajolec, who was an early member of Chrome Hearts. His ability to mix the rawness of American Gothic style with refined French aesthetics left a deep impression on me.
Above Riefe trunk show at Joyce Pacific Place (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
Above Riefe trunk show at Joyce Pacific Place (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
Riefe trunk show at Joyce Pacific Place (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
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What have you learned from working with Yohji Yamamoto?
So much. With Yohji-san, everything is fluid until the last moment. He doesn’t do rehearsals. We finalise everything the day before the show. Sometimes he’ll ask me to create something new overnight. I once had to source materials and make a headpiece in Paris with just hours to spare. It’s intense—but also a masterclass in spontaneity and in pushing beyond what’s expected.
You’re a trained gemologist. How has that technical background influenced your work?
It gives me control. Every stone has a cleavage plane—a way it can break. Understanding hardness and structural limits means I can push shapes without compromising integrity. I design knowing exactly what’s possible—and how far I can stretch it.
This is the first time you’ve used pearls. Why now?
Pearls have a soft and ‘cute’ image, often tied to tradition. I wanted to break that. Once Riefe’s identity was fully established, it felt like the right time to reinterpret pearls through a stronger, more structured lens. Even with their natural roundness, I designed settings that emphasised strength and geometry.
Riefe bracelets (Photo: Joyce Hong Kong)
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Onyx appears frequently in your work. Why?
Because it's strong. It can take on intricate shapes without shattering. In some pieces, I ask my cutters for deliberately off-centre hexagons or asymmetrical angles. With onyx, that’s possible. And of course, I love the depth of black.
What’s next for Riefe?
I design constantly—over 100 pieces a year. I also hold music events, create sunglasses and even make bags for Yohji. It’s important for me to create across disciplines. It keeps the energy flowing. We’re exploring opportunities abroad too—perhaps an exhibition and music event in Paris next year.
Any advice for other Asian women jewellery designers?
Honestly, no advice. I think every brand is unique and every designer is amazing in their own way.
Madeleine is a Singapore-born fashion journalist who loves discovering up-and-coming designers and scouring eBay for vintage garments. Beyond spotlighting both Asian and emerging voices, she strives to cultivate a safe space for creatives in the industry at large to share their stories. Off-duty, she’s a proud dog mom who likes to unwind in the great outdoors.
