Cover Pascale Lepeu, director of the Cartier Collection, reflects on the enduring allure of the panther in the maison’s creations (photo: Cartier)
Pascale Lepeu, director of the Cartier Collection, reflects on the enduring allure of the panther in the maison’s creations (photo: Cartier)
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Pascale Lepeu, director of the Cartier Collection, shares her insights into the panther motif in the maison’s archives
Jewellery is far more than a dazzling ornament—it is a form of art, imbued with history, emotion and soul. Each piece tells a story, capturing a moment in time with craftsmanship that transcends trends.
At Cartier: The Power of Magic, held at the Shanghai Museum, Tatler sat down with Pascale Lepeu, director of the Cartier Collection and guardian of the house’s most storied creations. Pascale Lepeu spoke of her favourite archival treasures and offered rare insight into the enduring symbolism of Cartier’s iconic panther.
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Above Pascale Lepeu, director of The Cartier Collection
Pascale Lepeu, director of The Cartier Collection
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Pascale Lepeu, which three works in the exhibition are most meaningful to you?
One particularly striking creation is Panther on Sapphire. The exhibition casts the panther in a new light—as a guardian. In this piece, poised atop a deep sapphire globe, the panther appears to be protecting the Earth.
Another favourite is a pair of jade watches. These exceptional timepieces stand as a symbol of cultural dialogue between East and West—each one distinct, each with its own story.
And then there is the snake—among the most captivating pieces for me. It resonates with the spirit of this year’s exhibition theme. The craftsmanship brings it startlingly to life. Actress Gong Li has a special affinity for it; she affectionately calls it Meimei, or “little sister” in Mandarin, underscoring her emotional connection to jewellery.
What makes fine jewellery worthy of being revered as an heirloom? And how do you see its meaning evolving across generations?
Fine jewellery is deeply personal and often becomes entwined with family legacy. When a piece is passed from grandmother to mother to daughter, it weaves a narrative across generations. Unlike many art forms that may end up in galleries, jewellery tends to remain close—held, worn, cherished. It can even become a source of strength, a tangible asset in times of hardship. Its emotional and practical resonance gives it enduring significance.
Above Cartier brooch (Cartier Paris 1949) (photo: Cartier)
Cartier brooch (Cartier Paris 1949) (photo: Cartier)
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Your exhibition focuses on magic. How do you interpret the connection between magic and jewellery? What makes a piece magical to you?
There’s a kind of enchantment in the way jewellery can spark emotion—confidence, joy, even awe for the artistry behind it. A single piece can transform the wearer. Slip on a tiara, for example, and you step into another persona. Through icons such as Daisy Fellowes and the Duchess of Windsor, jewellery transcended its material nature, emerging as both art and emotional expression.
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How has collaborating with artists and incorporating AI into your exhibitions changed the visitor experience?
Working with Cai Guo-Qiang on the exhibition design was a milestone. While AI doesn’t currently shape our jewellery creations, its presence in the exhibition adds a new sensory layer. The integration of soundscapes and immersive visuals creates a transporting experience—one that evokes the sensation of walking through a dreamlike garden.
Pascale Lepeu, how do you envision balancing tradition and modernity in future collections and exhibitions?
That balance often reveals itself through collaboration—whether with curators, museums or contemporary artists. Our future exhibitions may not overtly lean into futurism, but they will continue to honour the maison’s storied past while engaging with fresh themes and perspectives.
This article is adapted from the original published in the February 2025 print edition of Tatler Vietnam.
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