April 2021: What's New In Jewellery
From Van Cleef & Arpels, Ara Vartanian to Buccellati, these are the best new jewellery collections to shop now
Hong Kong-based Ilia has teamed up with Italian jeweller Scavia to create a series of sculptural rings made from titanium. These bulbous accessories bear jadeite cabochons and round brilliant-cut diamonds, which pop against subtle gradations of green, blue and purple.
A playful alternative to formal fine jewellery, the My Life in Seven Charms bracelet design by Annoushka Ducas celebrates the ten-year anniversary of the jeweller’s eponymous brand. This bespoke service encourages clients to come up with their own threedimensional charms that best suit their personal tastes and memories, which are then fixed onto a gold chain link. Unique to Ducas, the pictured bracelet features a yellow sapphire-set submarine which pays tribute to the famous Beatles song she remembers dancing to with her mother, as well as a ruby-fastened cable car, reminiscent of the one she took skiing in the French Alps. Interested? If so, consultations are available via Zoom and prices start around US$50,000.
Van Cleef & Arpels
Introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1970s, the Hellébore collection showcases flowers that are hewn from cuts of pink coral, mother-of-pearl and chalcedony. Fully set with diamonds outlined by yellow gold, these pieces are a dazzling ode to the flourishes of nature, and the latest additions to this wearable line are even more dramatic. Pockets of vibrant blue lapis lazuli and turquoise are mounted onto white gold and call to mind winter’s first frost.
Avant-garde jewellery brand El Baz has unveiled a new roster of sparklers, which it calls The Gleam collection. There’s never a mundane moment with this contemporary brand and this latest line is no different. Inspired by nature, these surreal creations shimmer with gemstones that are carefully assembled to conjure up fantastical images of wilting leaves, plump petals and writhing vines.
Born into a family of jewellers in São Paulo, Ara Vartanian founded his eponymous business in 2002. His jewellery has been worn by numerous celebrities over the years, including Penélope Cruz, Kate Moss and Madonna, and is mostly set with stand-out coloured gemstones including moss-green emeralds and gold-flecked lapis lazuli.
“Since discovering the work of Andrew Grima, I have not only become a collector of his exquisite creations, but I have also become one of the many to be inspired by his unique and inimitable designs,” said fashion designer Marc Jacobs about Andrew Grima’s work. Born in Rome in 1921 to an affluent Maltese-Italian family that moved to London several years later, Grima took over his father’s jewellery company in 1951 before being appointed jeweller to Queen Elizabeth II. This star-studded rise to fame has been retraced for the new coffee table book Andrew Grima: The Father of Modern Jewellery, which also details the jeweller’s collaborations with international houses including Dunhill, Omega and Pulsar.
These flirtatious earrings by New York-based jeweller Vedantti leave dramatically long strands of kaleidoscopic sapphires and diamonds trailing down the neck. With more women than ever becoming financially independent and breaking tradition by treating themselves to fine and high jewellery, Vedantti hopes that its one-of-a-kind pieces, which take inspiration from the brand’s flying bird logo, will catch the eyes of ladies everywhere.
The Opera Tulle collection has a textured look that elegantly showcases Buccellati's craftsmanship techniques. “Tulle” is one of the most complex methods in high jewellery and gives pieces an elegant, honeycomblike surface. It takes nearly a month for the goldsmith to bore a gold plate half a millimetre by hand, before adding slices of hard stones or enamel for a pop of colour.
Renna Jewels has released a selection of shell inspired pieces, which are handcrafted using various shades of 18-karat gold. “This new collection is largely inspired around the idea of seeking out treasures in our everyday lives, with beauty being in the eye of the beholder,” says Renna Brown-Taher, designer of Renna. “The most valuable things we have are our memories and connection with each other. These designs are simply mementoes of those sentiments, meant as tokens of love, vessels of memories and reminders of our connection to the world around us.” Renna’s pieces have already been worn by celebrities including Gigi Hadid and Nicky Hilton. Will you be next?
Swedish designer Annette Welander combines Scandinavian craftsmanship with geometric design. Urban elegance and modernity take centre stage, unlike the secret single diamond that’s hidden in each piece of jewellery, a Welander signature.