Fifty years ago, Cartier broke conventions in jewellery design as it elevates a familiar object into something infinitely bold, modern and iconic
There’s something to be said about industrial-inspired jewellery for bringing out the inner rebel in you. During the time when America was going through flower power, there was a French jewellery house in New York that was brewing a revolution of its own.
Conceived in 1969 and 1971 respectively, Cartier’s iconic Love and Juste un Clou bracelets have immediately caught on with celebrities and jewellery enthusiasts alike, and transformed the way people wore jewellery. During that time, jewellery was picked for special occasions or to match outfits but thanks to the audaciousness of the luxury jewellery maison, these unisex, hardware-inspired bracelets could be worn daily from day to night and have become a must-have item that continues to be coveted up to this day.
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The man behind them was Italian jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo, who designed the Love bracelet within a year of him joining the French jewellery house. Inspired by the symbolism of the medieval chastity belt, which maidens used to preserve their virtue while their beloved knights fought in The Crusades, Cipullo wanted to create an emblem of devotion and faithfulness, which he translated into the Love bracelet’s design. Made with two elliptical shapes and a flat top to lovingly curve around the wrist, with visible screws that act as a defining detail, the bracelet becomes whole when it is locked using a specific screwdriver. Akin to a precious handcuff, it can only be removed by unlocking it the same way. It is no wonder then that the Love bracelet is popular among couples, to symbolise their emotional connection to each other.
When it was originally released, it was rumoured that Cartier once had a policy that Love bracelets could only be purchased by a couple. In fact, it’s been worn by famous couples of the era, such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton as well as Ali McGraw and Steve McQueen. Today, thanks to fans like Kylie Jenner, Sofia Coppola, Cameron Diaz and Kanye West, the Love bracelet has gained cult status and is reportedly the most searched jewellery item on Google. It is even given as a present for special occasions such as the birth of a child or as a gift to oneself.
The Love bracelet is one of the most recognisable designs in Cartier’s illustrious history, and has expanded into a collection of rings, necklaces and earrings which are available in different variations of gold or paved with diamonds or precious stones.
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