(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
Cover Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is one of the most important fixtures on the world’s jewellery calendar (Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)

Tatler explores why the jewellery trade world keeps coming back to the Jewellery & Gem World fair in Hong Kong

Hong Kong hosts a major jewellery fair three times a year, and the next one opens next week. Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong, formerly branded the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair and one of two shows people usually mean by “Hong Kong’s jewellery fair”, opens at AsiaWorld-Expo on September 14, with a second leg for finished jewellery running at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from September 16 to 20.

Last year’s September edition drew 3,103 exhibitors from 44 countries and regions, spread across more than 40 pavilions. It pulled in 55,176 buyers from 141 countries and regions, 69 per cent of them from outside Hong Kong. Its sister fair in March, the 42nd Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, run separately by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, brought in roughly 4,000 exhibitors from more than 40 countries and 80,000 buyers from some 150 markets, even after ten exhibitors and an Iranian buying delegation stayed away because of flight disruptions from the US-Israel war on Iran, which had broken out just days before the fair opened.

A Hong Kong Trade Development Council survey of more than 1,500 attendees at that fair found most expected it would take a year or two for confidence to fully recover—yet over 44 per cent still expected sales to rise in that time, and organisers pointed to a debut Hard Pure Gold Pavilion, led by the World Gold Council, and more than 50 designer exhibitors, including several Korean brands showing for the first time, as reasons for optimism.

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(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
Above Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong fair 2025 (Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)

None of that scale is really about the fair itself, though. The fair is a symptom, not a cause. What explains why Hong Kong hosts not one but three major jewellery trade weeks a year, each pulling in tens of thousands of buyers, is a set of policies and migrations that were decades old before anyone built a convention centre to house them.

Start with the free port. Hong Kong has charged no import or export duty on precious metals or gemstones since its earliest years as a British Crown Colony, and it still doesn’t: the only goods that attract excise in the territory today are tobacco, liquor, methyl alcohol and hydrocarbon oil. For a trade built on moving small, extremely valuable objects across borders quickly and often, that single policy has counted for more than any amount of marketing. International diamond and gemstone wholesalers have based their trading operations in Hong Kong since as early as the 1960s for exactly this reason, drawn by how easily the free port lets them move stones in and out of the territory to anywhere else in the world.

In 1910, a group of money-changers and silver-firm owners founded what became the Chinese Gold and Silver Exchange Society, Hong Kong’s first exchange and, for well over a century, its only venue for trading physical gold and silver. It survived two world wars and a change of sovereignty, and in January 2025 it was restructured into a corporation, the Hong Kong Gold Exchange, as part of a government push to make the city a bullion trading centre to rival London and New York, complete with a new clearing and settlement system launched in mid-2026 and a delivery link to the Shanghai Gold Exchange. Long before any jewellery fair existed, Hong Kong already had the infrastructure for a precious-metals trade.

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(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
Above Some of the best suppliers of loose stones come together under one roof for this awaited Hong Kong jewellery fair every September (Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)

The people came next. During the Japanese occupation in the Second World War, diamonds became popular with Hong Kong’s Chinese population for a practical reason: they were small enough to hide and carry. Then, after the Communist Party took power on the mainland in 1949, a wave of Shanghainese jewellers and gem merchants relocated to the colony, bringing jade-carving, pearl-trading and goldsmithing skills built up over generations in Shanghai. Diamond imports were restricted across much of Asia after the war, so merchants from across Southeast Asia began travelling to duty-free Hong Kong to source stones instead; the trade grew quickly enough that the Diamond Importers Association was formed in 1959, and one dealer, Casey Liu, became De Beers’ only sightholder in the Far East and opened the region’s first diamond-cutting factory. By the 1970s, a local manufacturing sector had grown up alongside the trading one, exporting finished jewellery in the same decade Hong Kong became known for toys and textiles.

The fair itself is a comparatively recent addition to all this, and its two branches have separate histories. The Hong Kong Trade Development Council, the body behind the March show, was only established in 1966; its own jewellery fair began in 1984, run at the Convention and Exhibition Centre, which opened in 1988, and, for raw materials, at AsiaWorld-Expo, which opened in 2005. By its 34th edition in 2017 it already drew 2,580 exhibitors; the 2026 edition, its 42nd, drew roughly 4,000. The fair opening next week has a different lineage: in 1991, four trade associations invited the HKTDC to launch a joint September show, whose first edition ran at the Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel in September 1992. Three years later, it merged with a rival September show run by Miller Freeman, the trade-show operator that, through later acquisitions, became today’s organiser, Informa Markets. Either way, the effect is the same: two organisers, three fairs a year, and a density of trade weeks that no other city in the region attempts to match.

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(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
Above You are bound to find some of the most interesting jewels at the fair (Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)
(Photo: courtesy of Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong)

The last piece fell into place after the 1997 handover. Hong Kong’s free port status survived intact under “one country, two systems”, and in 2006 the mainland’s Closer Economic Partnership Arrangement gave goods of Hong Kong origin, jewellery included, tariff-free entry into China, just as China was becoming the world’s largest jewellery-buying market. Combined with a corporate tax rate of 16.5 per cent, among the lowest anywhere, that arrangement gave international suppliers reason to keep routing stones and finished pieces through Hong Kong rather than shipping direct. In 2024, Hong Kong led the world in jewellery imports, at US$18.9 billion, and ranked among the top ten exporters, at US$4.77 billion. The trade shows and the tax rate together, more than anything else, are what keep wholesalers based in Hong Kong who could technically set up almost anywhere else.

So when Jewellery & Gem World opens on September 14, and the Convention and Exhibition Centre fills up two days later for finished jewellery, its scale in any given year is only as strong as the conditions around it. What holds regardless is a duty-free port with a 116-year-old gold exchange, a diamond trade forged by war and revolution, and tariff-free access to the world’s biggest jewellery market—reasons the trade keeps landing in Hong Kong that were in place long before anyone booked the hall.

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Amrita Katara
Regional Editor, Watches and Jewellery, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia
Amrita Katara, regional editor watches and jewellery Tatler Asia

As the Regional Editor for Watches and Jewellery and Editorial Content Lead for Tatler GMT, Amrita Katara specialises in luxury watch and jewellery coverage across Asia, with expertise in editorial strategy, feature writing and interviews with industry leaders. Her past roles span luxury lifestyle media and client partnerships. Based in Mumbai, Amrita’s work bridges global trends and Asian market insights.