Icon of icons: Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra

Jacques Arpels’ personal motto, “To be lucky, you must believe in luck,” inspired the maison to create something that embodied that very philosophy. In 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the first Alhambra sautoir, an elegant long necklace that would not only become a signature of the brand but a landmark moment in the world of fine jewellery.

Taking inspiration from the four-leaf clover, a universal emblem of good fortune, French artisans crafted a refined silhouette featuring four rounded leaves, outlined in gold and delicately edged with golden beads or adorned with pearls. The name of the design draws from the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain, an architectural masterpiece of the 8th century, where Moorish motifs resembling overlapping circles, not unlike the four-leaf clover, are intricately carved into walls and decorative panels.

From the outset, Alhambra captivated fashion-forward women. Its initial appeal owed much to the prestige of its creator, Van Cleef & Arpels, the esteemed jeweller founded at Place Vendôme in Paris, long considered the heart of haute joaillerie. Behind every clover-shaped piece lies a meticulous 15-step process: from shaping and cutting to setting and final polishing. Alhambra is both a technical triumph and a wearable talisman.

Yet its significance runs deeper. The design marked a turning point for Van Cleef & Arpels, which at the time was searching for a distinctive signature within a rapidly evolving jewellery landscape. Alhambra offered that and more: it became a fashion icon, lending the maison both clarity and a timeless identity.

The iconicity and popularity of Alhambra jewellery also lie in its resonance with the spirit of the times. Launched during Paris’s Cultural Revolution, the Alhambra emerged as student protests and anti-capitalist marches brought the French economy to a standstill for seven weeks. Around the same time, designer Yves Saint Laurent was ushering in a new fashion era with the introduction of prêt-à-porter ready-to-wear. Designers like Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne and Mary Quant led the charge in liberating fashion, championing minidresses and women’s tailoring. The jewellery world, too, was undergoing transformation. Buyers began favouring refined yet practical pieces suitable for daily wear.

Sensing the moment, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced its “La Boutique” line, elegant jewellery at more accessible price points, intended not for soirées but for everyday elegance. Among the pieces, the Alhambra necklace stood out: delicate, slim, and easy to style. It swiftly captured hearts and became the must-have piece of the time.

Beyond its reputation as a lucky talisman, the Alhambra has evolved into a symbol of taste and understated glamour, thanks in no small part to a host of fashion icons. In April 1969, Swedish actress Britt Ekland appeared on the cover of Vogue wearing the original gold Alhambra necklace. French actress Romy Schneider wore a gold and onyx version in the 1974 film Le Mouton Enragé. Grace Kelly was famously devoted to the motif, often layering multiple Alhambra necklaces in coral, malachite, rock crystal and tortoiseshell. Françoise Hardy and Elizabeth Taylor were also known to adore the piece.

In the 2000s, actress Reese Witherspoon was often spotted in an onyx Alhambra necklace. Sharon Stone and Mariah Carey were also seen wearing pieces from the collection. On screen, Kelly Rutherford wore various versions of the Alhambra while portraying the elegant Lily van der Woodsen in Gossip Girl. The motif crossed into streetwear too: rappers Central Cee and Offset layered Alhambra bracelets, and Drake gave the brand a lyrical nod in his music. Most recently, the Princess of Wales, Kate Middleton, has frequently been seen wearing Alhambra pieces during public engagements, further solidifying the design’s status as a modern-day talisman.

See more: What makes Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations poetic?

Today, the Alhambra remains one of the most coveted and talked-about pieces in the world of fine jewellery. From red carpet soirées to everyday styling, it has become a subtle yet powerful symbol of taste. Its desirability is reflected in a surging secondary market. In 2024, sales at luxury resale platforms are projected to rise by 56 per cent compared to the previous year. “The average price of Alhambra pieces has climbed notably, with styles like the 10-motif necklace now commanding over $1,000 more than before,” says Hayley Powell, director of fine jewellery at The RealReal. Meanwhile, Vestiaire Collective reports a consistent rise in Alhambra sales from 2020 to 2024, up by an impressive 186 per cent.

The Alhambra line has recorded the most significant increase in Van Cleef & Arpels’ most recent round of price adjustments, with a rise of 20 per cent between 2023 and 2025. This reflects not only fluctuations in the cost of raw materials and tariffs, but also growing demand and perceived value. Much like classic CHANEL bags, Alhambra creations are now seen as smart investments, with resale values reaching up to 75 per cent—equal to, or in some cases surpassing, the official retail price, particularly for rare, limited-edition or discontinued models.

Over the course of nearly six decades, the Alhambra line has continued to evolve, branching into new forms and incorporating a wide range of materials. From the original long necklace, the four-leaf clover motif has been extended to earrings, bracelets and rings. Beyond gold, silver, pearls and diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels has drawn on an impressive array of natural elements to shape its creations: bois d’amourette (letterwood), believed to symbolise luck; Namibian agate, associated with harmony and calm; red-orange agate, considered by the ancient Egyptians to embody life; diamonds and malachite, used as protective charms; lapis lazuli, once reserved for royalty in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt; mother-of-pearl, formed naturally within seashells; tiger’s eye, worn by Roman soldiers for its “all-seeing” properties; deep black Brazilian agate with a high-shine surface; and turquoise, valued for its vivid, oceanic hue and long-held spiritual associations.

With nothing more than a single four-leaf clover silhouette, Van Cleef & Arpels has transformed the Alhambra into a rich and varied collection, filled with diverse expressions of grace and optimism. Each piece is a unique reflection of style and belief, shaped through subtle shifts in size, tone and material. The Vintage Alhambra stays true to the original 1968 design. Magic Alhambra plays with scale, combining stones like tiger’s eye, grey mother-of-pearl and onyx to create shimmering contrast. Sweet Alhambra brings a sense of delicate elegance through miniature motifs of clovers, hearts and butterflies (pure Alhambra reimagines the edges in smooth polished gold, giving a modern, minimal finish. Byzantine Alhambra distils the clover into its most geometric and understated form, using only plain gold.

From its quiet beginnings as a token of luck, the Alhambra has risen to become one of the most recognised silhouettes in the world of fine jewellery. With its balance of simplicity and presence, poise and versatility, the Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels endures as a testament to both reinvention and the timeless allure of good fortune.

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