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On the 75th anniversary of its iconic Serpenti, Bulgari unravels the roots of this signature motif that has continuously evolved over the years, together with the women who wear it
Mention Bulgari and its Serpenti icon inevitably comes to mind. The serpent is firmly woven in with the brand’s history and has become synonymous with the Roman jeweller today, 75 years since it was first introduced on a jewellery watch designed to be wrapped around the wrist.
At that time in 1948, the image of the Serpenti was rather stylised; its linked body was crafted using the revolutionary Tubogas technique of metalworking, which gave the bracelet flexibility and suppleness by wrapping strips of gold around a coiled spring without soldering. It was not only an indication of Bulgari’s innovative spirit, but also foreshadowed the transformative, future‑oriented nature of the Serpenti that was to come.
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Above Italian actress and model Benedetta Barzini wearing Bulgari Serpenti jewellery, photographed by Gian Paolo Barbieri for Vogue US in 1968
Above The Serpenti creations adorned many stars, including a young Marisa Berenson
Italian actress and model Benedetta Barzini wearing Bulgari Serpenti jewellery, photographed by Gian Paolo Barbieri for Vogue US in 1968
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In religion and mythology, snakes and serpents have long been symbols of rebirth and renewal, as they are believed to have transformative and regenerative powers due to their ability to shed skin. Bulgari’s Serpenti has adopted this ever‑changing nature, taking shape in various forms throughout the course of its existence.
In the 1950s, Bulgari started to give the serpent a more lifelike, figurative style, with its precious head embellished with ruby, emerald or diamond eyes. This made way for the true expression of the motif in the 1960s, when the serpent took on various personalities through the use of colourful gemstones and enamels on its scales. It was during this era of innovation that the maison created the first Serpenti secret jewellery watches, where the dial is hidden within the head of the snake.
Since then, the Serpenti has continued to captivate jewellery lovers in countless creations, each displaying Bulgari’s bold spirit as well as its incredible jewellery artistry and techniques that have evolved along with the emblem.
Bulgari Serpenti collection
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From heritage and high jewellery pieces to more subtle, stylised and contemporary interpretations such as the popular Serpenti Viper, there is truly a Serpenti for everyone.
“Reinterpreting the Serpenti over and over without changing its identity is an inspiring challenge,” says Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s jewellery creative director. “It is this perfect balance between its heritage and [creative] evolution that has made the icon truly timeless and always in step with the times.”
Jean‑Christophe Babin, group CEO of Bulgari, adds: “For 75 years, Bulgari has shown its audacious creativity, ingenious craftsmanship and modern spirit through its emblematic Serpenti creations inspired by the jewels of Cleopatra, in a Rome of more than 2000 years ago. They convey endless tales, artistry and empowerment. [The Serpenti] expanded the boundaries of jewellery, reflecting the spirit of confident women and entering the world of art through exciting creative collaborations. It was and is the ultimate Bulgari icon of endless metamorphosis”.
Certainly, the Serpenti has slithered its way into the hearts of many powerful, inspiring and extraordinary women around the world over the past 75 years, and has become tightly intertwined with the feminine universe. It has adorned the likes of screen legends such as Elizabeth Taylor as well as Hollywood stars including Marisa Berenson, Naomi Campbell and Zendaya. Just as the Serpenti has evolved, so have the women who wear it—they have become more independent, liberated and empowered.
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Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
