Cover Cartier image, style and heritage director Pierre Rainero, Carina Lau, Pansy Ho, Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron, Michelle Yeoh, Cartier regional MD of North Asia Nigel Luk, Brigitte Lin and HKPM director Louis Ng (Photo: courtesy of CLUK)
Cartier image, style and heritage director Pierre Rainero, Carina Lau, Pansy Ho, Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron, Michelle Yeoh, Cartier regional MD of North Asia Nigel Luk, Brigitte Lin and HKPM director Louis Ng (Photo: courtesy of CLUK)
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Tatler speaks to the jewellery maison’s CEO about the brand’s first major exhibition on the influence of women in its history
It’s a brave brand that takes “women” as the theme of its major exhibition. The move is fraught with danger and potential pitfalls: how does one take on a gender as a theme and do it justice? How can a gender be adequately and insightfully represented? And how much more difficult is it in the context of today’s conversation on gender and sexuality?
Cartier took on this challenge with its Cartier and Women exhibition, which is open to the public until August 14 at the Hong Kong Palace Museum. The exhibition showcases approximately 300 items from its archival collections, as well as special pieces on loan from collectors such as Brigitte Lin, Pansy Ho and Carina Lau. The exhibits include jewellery, timepieces, precious objects and archival records, some of which date back to the 19th century.
Read more: Birthstone guide for June: How pearls can help foster virtues of purity, integrity and honesty
This is Cartier’s first major exhibition on the role and influence of women in the brand’s history, and CEO Cyrille Vigneron takes us through the strategy involved in the exhibition’s structure and focus, the evolution of the role of jewellery through the decades, and how it all ties in to the celebration and empowerment of women today.
Above Cyrille Vigneron (Photo courtesy: Jean-François Robert)
Cyrille Vigneron (Photo courtesy: Jean-François Robert)
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Why did Cartier decide to focus on women for this exhibition?
It came from the [Palace] Museum: “What about Cartier women?” The theme is the link between the jewellery and the role women play in society. Jewellery was, in some ways, representing the weight of their role and the strength of their character. Although this theme looks simple in some ways, it is also a story about female empowerment. Three of the most charismatic women in Asia [loaned pieces] for this exhibition, [and so] have also taught us how jewellery can be a way for them to express the power of their own character. Jewellery is a part of their story.
The exhibition contains rare historical pieces that go back decades. How would you say the role of jewellery in our lives has evolved over time?
The power of jewellery is that, even if you don’t see it as a symbol, the symbol acts on you. If you wear a wedding band, it becomes your talisman. If you wear an engagement ring, you wear [a promise]. More people are stacking bracelets as a fashion symbol, but if you realise that the stacking on the wrist is protecting [one of ] the most vulnerable parts of the body, like warriors do, then jewellery is something that can both oppress and protect. It’s also one of the rare things you wear directly on your skin.
So, even if you say it’s just a mere accessory, in fact, it’s made of noble material and, because of the place you put it, it expresses more. Not many people are conscious of that, but that is the power of jewellery; its power comes to you even when you don’t realise it.
Above Cartier Paris Bib necklace from 1947 (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
Cartier Paris Bib necklace from 1947 (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
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The exhibition also features pieces commissioned by famous women. How have these design requests changed over the years?
A special customer order to represent something continues [to this day], and inspiration can come from the past or the present. It’s like designing your house; you can ask an architect [to work on it alone], but you also want to be part of it to make it really yours. We don’t do everything which is asked; we say it has to stay within the Cartier style. We have to understand the purpose behind it, and then we contribute to that. And it [results in] some of the most extraordinary pieces, like Jean Cocteau’s Academician sword, which was made to represent the myth of Orpheus. There is always something to celebrate, and jewellery can be the best way to [remember] it forever.
There has been a bigger conversation about gender fluidity in recent years. How do you see this impacting the jewellery industry and the Cartier brand?
Especially in the 19th and 20th century, jewellery was very much linked to femininity and women wearing it. For a period of time, men thought the most precious thing they could wear was a watch. [But in comparison], 18th-century jewellery was more [commonly worn by men], for royals to express their nobility. In today’s “de-stereotyping”, we see more and more men happy to wear jewellery.
Some tend to think that going towards “unisex” [pieces] means the abolishment of gender [as a category], but it seems the contrary is true. The way people want to [express] their biological sex or sexual preference, or [define] how they feel or what they want, can create many more categories. Instead of disappearing into a “category”, it seems more people are craving a way to express themselves in a different way. And in that, jewellery plays a big role.
Above Cartier Paris engagement ring from 1956 (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
Cartier Paris engagement ring from 1956 (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
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What do you hope people take away from this exhibition? What would you like them to understand about Cartier and its vision?
First, that there have always been beautiful ways to celebrate women, even in periods where women have been constrained. There has also been a strong movement of women’s liberation. So, the takeaway would be: be yourself, now. Whoever you are, find a way to express yourself in a beautiful way. We’re all unique in our identity, and we can all be unique together, with others.
When you see the [Cartier] creations, they’re all so different. But you can find a common thread, in [their] attention to detail, sophistication and pure beauty. You can be inspired, truly, by anything. So, look at everything and see the beauty wherever it may lie—and try to express it in your own way.
