Cover ‘New Women: Breaking with Tradition’ explores themes of femininity via a captivating assortment of valuable items (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
‘New Women: Breaking with Tradition’ explores themes of femininity via a captivating assortment of valuable items (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
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The world-first exhibition at the Hong Kong Palace Museum showcases the vital contributions made by women throughout the history of the revered Parisian jeweller
Beyond highlighting the undeniable female influence on Cartier’s philosophy, identity and creations, the Cartier and Women exhibition reveals the impact of Chinese culture on global luxury, fashion and design, with particular emphasis on Cartier’s iconic output during the art deco era.
This period of the early 20th century was a time of significant change, and not merely in the realm of art and design. Around the turn of the century, the idea of the “new woman” had begun to crystallise in the western world, as a social and political movement formed that sought to secure equal rights for women and challenge traditional gender roles—casting off the antiquated Victorian concept of docile or submissive femininity.
The path was soon paved for the emergence in the 1920s of the sexually, socially and philosophically liberated flapper, the subsequent rise of second-wave feminism in the 1960s and 70s, and today’s progress towards gender equality.
“Cartier and Women” special exhibition (Photo: courtesy of Cartier)
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The second section of the Cartier and Women exhibition at the Hong Kong Palace Museum, New Women: Breaking with Tradition explores these themes via a captivating assortment of valuable items. The important artefacts on display bear witness to the remarkable progress made in jewellery, and the innovative designs during the period when women’s liberation and the push for gender equality rose to prominence.
It focuses on the house’s first female creative director, Jeanne Toussaint, detailing her role in advancing women’s empowerment and her impact on the style icons of her generation. Toussaint, a disruptor in the male-dominated society of her day and a revolutionary figure in contemporary jewellery, was appointed by Louis Cartier in 1933.
In this role, she spearheaded the rethinking of jewellery as a means of self-expression and independent spirit, rather than simply a display of affluence or status. Toussaint creatively turned the iconic Panthère into an emblem of women’s strong personalities and rising status, examples of which are found in the exhibition, including a platinum, white gold, diamond and sapphire brooch acquired in 1949 by the Duchess of Windsor.
“Through the fascinating stories of the women behind these exquisite exhibits, we hope to inspire visitors to explore the role and influence of women across time,” says Dr Louis Ng, museum director of the HKPM, who worked in close partnership with Cartier to curate the exhibition that comprises nearly 300 noteworthy pieces from the maison’s extensive archives.
