BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 07: Models walk the runway during the Rebekka Ruetz Runway Show as part of the W.E4. Fashion Day during Berlin Fashion Week AW24 at Verti Music Hall on February 07, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Rebekka Ruetz)
Cover Rebekka Ruetz Runway Show. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Rebekka Ruetz)
BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 07: Models walk the runway during the Rebekka Ruetz Runway Show as part of the W.E4. Fashion Day during Berlin Fashion Week AW24 at Verti Music Hall on February 07, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Rebekka Ruetz)

根據外媒報導,德國柏林最知名KaDeWe百貨公司驚傳破產,而這股浪潮之所以成為頭條新聞,是因為其中包括了德國時裝零售和生產領域的一些知名企業:德國知名百貨公司Peek & Cloppenburg、德國品牌Gerry Weber、大型百貨連鎖Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof、德國時裝設計品牌Lala Berlin、箱包製造商 Bree等等德國時尚零售企業皆紛紛宣布破產,聽起來似乎很糟,但德國為僅次於英國的歐洲第二大時尚零售業,每年價值約有700億歐元,難道真的注定是失敗嗎?為什麼德國作為歐洲最先進國家卻沒有躋身成為更大的時尚強國呢?

德國其實擁有蓬勃發展的時尚產業,尤其是在城市柏林,這座大城市融合了許多國際時尚設計師和各種多樣化的創意時尚活動,已成為新興設計師的聚集地,因此在這座大城市的薰陶下,時尚的活躍程度讓人們幾乎不會感覺到與其他的歐洲強國有何不同,尤其是曾看過一篇文章提及「城市柏林給人一種陰沉且病態的酷」是一種很難形容的時髦感和消極美。不過隨著德國經濟放緩、消費者信心日益低迷,德國時尚消費者擔心通貨膨脹,也更不願意花錢。不願花錢也就意味當實用主義凌駕於造夢之上。根據德國零售聯合會的報告指出,德國人不太願意在治裝上花錢,而更願意把鈔票花在假期和旅遊方面。產業觀察家從整體來看認為,實際上德國的時尚零售產業並沒有遇到麻煩,但只是在變化,而這種變化可能早就應該發生了。即便如此,我們還是不禁好奇,為何德國在一定程度上被認為不是一個主要的時尚強國,根據社會風氣討論上,給出了以下幾個原因。

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1. 二戰過後,德國人更加重視傳統產業而非張揚的華服

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29 January 2024, Berlin: The illuminated logo of Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) is attached to the façade. The KaDeWe Group has filed for insolvency. However, the stores will continue to operate, the company announced. Photo: Monika Skolimowska/dpa (Photo by Monika Skolimowska/picture alliance via Getty Images)
Above KaDeWe 百貨。 (Getty Images)
29 January 2024, Berlin: The illuminated logo of Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) is attached to the façade. The KaDeWe Group has filed for insolvency. However, the stores will continue to operate, the company announced. Photo: Monika Skolimowska/dpa (Photo by Monika Skolimowska/picture alliance via Getty Images)

以德國最大經濟發展來看,德國的經濟主要以工業製造業為主,例如汽車、機械製造和化工等。這些傳統產業吸引了大量的投資和人才,使德國的產業和資源主要集中於此,而忽略了時尚產業的發展。尤其是二戰過後,對經濟和社會皆造成了巨大的破壞,戰後德國致力於重建經濟和社會,戰後的德國更加注重實用性、低調和節儉,德國人普遍重視實用性和功能性,而不像法國人那樣重視時尚和風格,這種文化價值觀的差異也影響了兩國時尚產業的發展方向。

2. 德國街道只有黑白灰?實用是德國人的時尚宗旨?

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BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 25: Sophia Geiss seen wearing Saint Laurent black sunglasses, silver earrings, COS dark grey oversized short wool coat, Arket grey cotton hooded zip sweater, Intimissimi creamy white sheer high neck top, Mango black micro shorts, black tights, COS black leather handbag, on February 25, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above 柏林時裝週街拍。 (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
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BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 25: Leo Eberlin seen wearing Bottega Veneta black sunglasses, Leo Mathild jewelry / diamond bracelet and rings, Allude x Leo Mathild cashmere wool knit buttoned body, Toteme black leather belt, Velaa light grey elegant suit pants, Rolex silver watch, Hermès black leather clutch bag and Saint Laurent black varnished leather heels / pumps, on February 25, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above 柏林時裝週街拍。 (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 25: Sophia Geiss seen wearing Saint Laurent black sunglasses, silver earrings, COS dark grey oversized short wool coat, Arket grey cotton hooded zip sweater, Intimissimi creamy white sheer high neck top, Mango black micro shorts, black tights, COS black leather handbag, on February 25, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 25: Leo Eberlin seen wearing Bottega Veneta black sunglasses, Leo Mathild jewelry / diamond bracelet and rings, Allude x Leo Mathild cashmere wool knit buttoned body, Toteme black leather belt, Velaa light grey elegant suit pants, Rolex silver watch, Hermès black leather clutch bag and Saint Laurent black varnished leather heels / pumps, on February 25, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

旅行德國不難發現,德國街道上皆是極簡的黑、白、灰,不過這也不代表什麼,因為冬日旅法時,巴黎的街道上也少出現除了黑白灰、大地色系的其他張揚、繽紛的色彩。不過,同樣都是簡單的單色調,巴黎街道穿著的輪廓、風格就是相當顯眼、具有設計感。而德國普遍對實用性和功能性較為重視,樸素且機能性的服裝成為了日常,他們更傾向於選擇簡約、耐用和實用的服飾,而非追求時尚的奢侈品牌,因此街道上背著名牌包包的人很少,但隨處可見穿著價值非凡的價機能性外套的人出現。

3. 缺乏國際知名時裝品牌

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24(L-R) Models on the catwalk at the Jil Sander show in Milan, Italy.(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)
Above Jil Sander show in Milan, Italy.(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 24(L-R) Models on the catwalk at the Jil Sander show in Milan, Italy.(Photo by Jonas Gustavsson for The Washington Post via Getty Images)

法國、義大利在幾個世紀以來一直是歐洲時尚的中心,這與其豐富的文化遺產和對藝術的推崇有關。法國擁有許多世界知名的時尚品牌,例如Chanel、Louis Vuitton和Dior等等,這些品牌的崛起與法國的文化和歷史有著密切相關。相比之下,德國的時尚產業相對較年輕,缺乏法國般的悠久歷史和文化底蘊。雖然德國還是有一些相當知名的服裝品牌,像是Hugo Boss和Adidas,也有許多時尚設計師品牌例如Jil Sander,但它們與其他國際品牌相比規模仍然較小。儘管如此,德國在時尚設計和創新方面仍然具有一定的影響力,特別是在可持續時尚和功能性服飾方面。隨著時代的變遷和全球化的影響,德國的時尚產業可能會逐漸發展壯大。

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BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 07: Models are seen backstage ahead of the Rianna + Nina X NEWEST Fashion Show at Bode Museum on February 07, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Joshua Sammer/Getty Images for  NEWEST Contemporay Fashion Hub)
Above 柏林時裝品牌Rianna + Nina X NEWEST Fashion Show. (Photo by Joshua Sammer/Getty Images for NEWEST Contemporay Fashion Hub)
BERLIN, GERMANY - FEBRUARY 07: Models are seen backstage ahead of the Rianna + Nina X NEWEST Fashion Show at Bode Museum on February 07, 2024 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Joshua Sammer/Getty Images for  NEWEST Contemporay Fashion Hub)

就像是當被問及德國服裝業是否落後於其他歐洲國家或在某種程度上更加保守時,就有分析家認為「德國是歐洲大陸最大的服裝市場,存在一些嚴格的進入壁壘,這使得當地生產商和零售商在質疑其商業模式時更加謹慎。」而對於時裝設計來說,德國擁有相當強大的當代建築設計,例如在工業、藝術都蓬勃發展之際,而興起的包浩斯,結合了建築、工藝、藝術,將藝術家、工匠和工業之間的界線抹除,將現代設計發揚至全世界。德國的時裝設計品牌也都帶有極簡、現代,摒棄了多餘的繁複細節,專注於面料與剪裁,以實用主義切入,注重可持續性,也別忘了德國是個成熟的多元化、公平性和包容性的國家,因此在時尚設計方面也相對多元以及創新。或許對他人而言,德國與時尚大國沾不上邊,但細細品嚐就會發現,將實用帶進時尚也能夠是場視覺盛宴。

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Keira Lu
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia
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Keira Lu

Fashion Editor, Taiwan

keira.lu@tatlerasia.com