MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
Cover Fendi autumn-winter 2022 at Milan Men's Fashion Week (Photo: Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)

Tatler為你總結2022秋冬米蘭男裝週上值得關注的主要時尚趨勢

米蘭男裝週讓我們對即將到來的2022年秋冬趨勢有了新的認識。我們看到在中性色調中出現了流行的色彩、既實用又時尚的分層設計,以及混合面料以創造視覺對比。

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我們已經從本季的系列中確定了6個關鍵趨勢,以及最佳的天橋造型示範:

1. 樽領毛衣 2.0

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Photo 1 of 5 Erdem 2022 秋冬(照片:Erdem)
Photo 2 of 5 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)
Photo 3 of 5 Tod's 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Tod's)
Photo 4 of 5 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬成衣(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 5 of 5 JW Anderson 2022 秋冬系列(照片:JW Anderson)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

樽領毛衣本季仍然很流行,儘管它們已經用大膽的顏色和圖案煥然一新。 Erdem 和 Tod's 的針織高領套頭衫換上了獨特的秋季色調,Etro的設計則加入了滑雪後印花細節。 Dolce & Gabbana 設計了一款採用醒目黑白印花結合正流行的balaclava頭套式樽領;而 JW Anderson 則展示了一款富有創意、色彩繽紛、厚實的鏤空樽領套頭衫。

 

2. 層次感

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Photo 1 of 5 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 2 of 5 Vetements 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Vetements)
Photo 3 of 5 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
Photo 4 of 5 Fendi 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 5 of 5 1017 Alyx 9SM 2022 秋冬(照片:Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage )
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the 1017 Alyx 9SM fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 14, 2022 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

作為樽領衫潮流的延伸,我們可以看到男裝在上身的明顯疊搭。Dolce & Gabbana、Fendi、Alyx、Etro和Vetements都探索了樽領毛衣、襯衫、拉鍊領、夾克和大衣的不同組合。一件件單品被目的地配搭在一起,在領口周圍創造層次感,吸引人們的目光。

 

3. 皮大衣

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Photo 1 of 4 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
Photo 2 of 4 Fendi 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 3 of 4 普拉達 2022 秋冬(照片:普拉達)
Photo 4 of 4 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage )
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

秋冬是穿皮革的理想季節,本今季品牌們探索了不同顏色和表面處理的皮大衣。由於Veri Peri是今年的Pantone色,Fendi和Etro都採用了紫色調的皮革。Prada選擇了紅色的版本,Dolce & Gabbana也選擇了緊身剪裁、如Matrix式的全黑套裝。

4. 非傳統羊羔毛剪裁

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Photo 1 of 4 1017 Alyx 9SM 2022 秋冬(照片:Estrop/Getty Images)
Photo 2 of 4 JW Anderson 2022 秋冬系列(照片:JW Anderson)
Photo 3 of 4 Fendi 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 4 of 4 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)
A model walks the runway at the 1017 Alyx 9SM fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 14, 2022 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)

Alyx、Etro、Fendi 和 JW Anderson 都在寒冷的月份將目光放在了另一種經典面料——羊羔毛(shearling)。 JW Anderson 的款式類似於連身裙,採用 A 字剪裁和裹身款式,而 Fendi 的款式則更像是一隻小羊,全身都是白色的剪羊毛。 Alyx和Etro採用了紅色和橙色的溫暖色調,在大衣的手臂和身體上有明確的剪羊毛鑲邊細節。

5. 超大剪裁

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Photo 1 of 5 Vetements 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Vetements)
Photo 2 of 5 Zegna 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Zegna)
Photo 3 of 5 普拉達 2022 秋冬(照片:普拉達)
Photo 4 of 5 1017 Alyx 9SM 2022 秋冬(照片:Estrop/Getty Images)
Photo 5 of 5 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the 1017 Alyx 9SM fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 14, 2022 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

全身上下Oversized的造型還將持續流行寬鬆的一切看起來仍然很強勁。 Demna 設計的服裝總是有意地,有時甚至是滑稽地過大,本季的Vetements也不例外,連帽衫、西裝外套和闊腿褲大行其道。 Zegna、Prada、Alyx 和 Dolce & Gabbana 也走了同樣的休閒風格路線,他們仍然保持利落的剪裁以確保勻稱的比例。

6. 寬翻領

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Photo 1 of 4 Erdem 2022 秋冬(照片:Erdem)
Photo 2 of 4 Vetements 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Vetements)
Photo 3 of 4 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 4 of 4 Moschino 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Moschino)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

延續超廓形的趨勢,翻領也變得更寬。更大的翻領為一件衣服增加了復古而現代的一面——Erdem和Vetements正是用中性的羊毛夾克和大衣做到了這一點,而Dolce & Gabbana和Moschino則對這個細節進行了非常規的調整。 Dolce & Gabbana在亮片夾克和皮大衣上展示了各種尖翻領,而Moschino則用糖果色誇大翻領。

 

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