MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
Cover Fendi autumn-winter 2022 at Milan Men's Fashion Week (Photo: Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images)

Tatler為你總結2022秋冬米蘭男裝週上值得關注的主要時尚趨勢

米蘭男裝週讓我們對即將到來的2022年秋冬趨勢有了新的認識。我們看到在中性色調中出現了流行的色彩、既實用又時尚的分層設計,以及混合面料以創造視覺對比。

延伸閱讀: 《Bad and Crazy》李棟旭、Bright、還有台灣演員施柏宇!盤點2022秋冬男裝時尚週上最養眼亞洲男星

我們已經從本季的系列中確定了6個關鍵趨勢,以及最佳的天橋造型示範:

1. 樽領毛衣 2.0

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Photo 1 of 5 Erdem 2022 秋冬(照片:Erdem)
Photo 2 of 5 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)
Photo 3 of 5 Tod's 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Tod's)
Photo 4 of 5 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬成衣(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 5 of 5 JW Anderson 2022 秋冬系列(照片:JW Anderson)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

樽領毛衣本季仍然很流行,儘管它們已經用大膽的顏色和圖案煥然一新。 Erdem 和 Tod's 的針織高領套頭衫換上了獨特的秋季色調,Etro的設計則加入了滑雪後印花細節。 Dolce & Gabbana 設計了一款採用醒目黑白印花結合正流行的balaclava頭套式樽領;而 JW Anderson 則展示了一款富有創意、色彩繽紛、厚實的鏤空樽領套頭衫。

 

2. 層次感

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Photo 1 of 5 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 2 of 5 Vetements 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Vetements)
Photo 3 of 5 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
Photo 4 of 5 Fendi 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 5 of 5 1017 Alyx 9SM 2022 秋冬(照片:Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage )
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the 1017 Alyx 9SM fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 14, 2022 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)

作為樽領衫潮流的延伸,我們可以看到男裝在上身的明顯疊搭。Dolce & Gabbana、Fendi、Alyx、Etro和Vetements都探索了樽領毛衣、襯衫、拉鍊領、夾克和大衣的不同組合。一件件單品被目的地配搭在一起,在領口周圍創造層次感,吸引人們的目光。

 

3. 皮大衣

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Photo 1 of 4 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
Photo 2 of 4 Fendi 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 3 of 4 普拉達 2022 秋冬(照片:普拉達)
Photo 4 of 4 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage )
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

秋冬是穿皮革的理想季節,本今季品牌們探索了不同顏色和表面處理的皮大衣。由於Veri Peri是今年的Pantone色,Fendi和Etro都採用了紫色調的皮革。Prada選擇了紅色的版本,Dolce & Gabbana也選擇了緊身剪裁、如Matrix式的全黑套裝。

4. 非傳統羊羔毛剪裁

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Photo 1 of 4 1017 Alyx 9SM 2022 秋冬(照片:Estrop/Getty Images)
Photo 2 of 4 JW Anderson 2022 秋冬系列(照片:JW Anderson)
Photo 3 of 4 Fendi 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 4 of 4 Etro 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)
A model walks the runway at the 1017 Alyx 9SM fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 14, 2022 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Fendi Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 16: A model walks the runway at the Etro fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 16, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Stefania D'Alessandro/WireImage)

Alyx、Etro、Fendi 和 JW Anderson 都在寒冷的月份將目光放在了另一種經典面料——羊羔毛(shearling)。 JW Anderson 的款式類似於連身裙,採用 A 字剪裁和裹身款式,而 Fendi 的款式則更像是一隻小羊,全身都是白色的剪羊毛。 Alyx和Etro採用了紅色和橙色的溫暖色調,在大衣的手臂和身體上有明確的剪羊毛鑲邊細節。

5. 超大剪裁

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Photo 1 of 5 Vetements 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Vetements)
Photo 2 of 5 Zegna 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Zegna)
Photo 3 of 5 普拉達 2022 秋冬(照片:普拉達)
Photo 4 of 5 1017 Alyx 9SM 2022 秋冬(照片:Estrop/Getty Images)
Photo 5 of 5 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
A model walks the runway at the 1017 Alyx 9SM fashion show during the Milan Men's Fashion Week - Fall/Winter 2022/2023 on January 14, 2022 in Milan, Italy.  (Photo by Estrop/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

全身上下Oversized的造型還將持續流行寬鬆的一切看起來仍然很強勁。 Demna 設計的服裝總是有意地,有時甚至是滑稽地過大,本季的Vetements也不例外,連帽衫、西裝外套和闊腿褲大行其道。 Zegna、Prada、Alyx 和 Dolce & Gabbana 也走了同樣的休閒風格路線,他們仍然保持利落的剪裁以確保勻稱的比例。

6. 寬翻領

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Photo 1 of 4 Erdem 2022 秋冬(照片:Erdem)
Photo 2 of 4 Vetements 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Vetements)
Photo 3 of 4 Dolce & Gabbana 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Photo 4 of 4 Moschino 2022 秋冬系列(照片:Moschino)
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 15: A model walks the runway during the Dolce & Gabbana Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 fashion show as part of the  Milan Men Fashion Week on January 15, 2022 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

延續超廓形的趨勢,翻領也變得更寬。更大的翻領為一件衣服增加了復古而現代的一面——Erdem和Vetements正是用中性的羊毛夾克和大衣做到了這一點,而Dolce & Gabbana和Moschino則對這個細節進行了非常規的調整。 Dolce & Gabbana在亮片夾克和皮大衣上展示了各種尖翻領,而Moschino則用糖果色誇大翻領。

 

Topics

Cherry Mui
Fashion Director, Tatler Hong Kong
Tatler Asia

Cherry Mui is the fashion director of Tatler Hong Kong. She grew up in Chengdu, China, as well as Hong Kong, and loves to stay up-to-date with the latest trends. When she's not styling photoshoots or lusting over runway looks, she's posting outfit pics on Instagram. Follow her @cherrymuii