Cover The making of Look 70 at the Chanel Paris-New York Métiers D’art Show

The story behind this dazzling hand-appliqued dress from the Paris-New York Métiers D’art show of 2018/2019 depicts a mastery of detail accomplished by its ateliers.

Like its name suggests, the Métiers D’art Collection pays homage to the art of craftsmanship, its use of specific materials and embellishment, in a feat made possible by its illustrious ateliers. For Chanel’s Paris-New York Métiers D’art show on December 4, 2018, an Egyptian theme came to light in blazing looks of gold, embroidery, pleats and jewels, fitting of any female pharaohs.

One look that captured this paraphernalia was Look 70, an organza dress pieced with sequins and coloured gems; each part constructed in different ateliers. “I think the Chanel Métiers D’art collection is very much down to this refinement which should be seen close up, almost touched, to understand how it is done,” the late Karl Lagerfeld did say, after all.

The Start Of Look 70

Look 70 began from the Lesage ateliers as a sketch. Soon after Karl Lagerfeld validated the embroidery sample, its design was shaped on tracing paper, according to exact proportions and cutting details. A silk organza fabric is then handcrafted with 47,000 sequins of gold, turquoise and coral, before 150 Goossens cabochon gems are affixed together with a bejewelled upper adornment. This entire process takes 480 hours alone to implement.

Delicate Pleats

The next step is a delicate undertaking by the Lognon atelier, whereby a black tulle of pleats is attached to the lower part of the dress. It is arranged in accordian style, before gold threads are weaved in by the Lemarié atelier.

See also: Virginie Viard's First Chanel Cruise 2019/2020 Collection Puts A Railway On The Runway

The Look Unfolds

The assembly of Look 70 carries on in the Lesage atelier, also known as the Chanel ready-to-wear atelier. Here, the look’s components are delivered by batches for seamstresses to put together the dress, including the lower black tulle trimming.

A Final Nod

The final fitting of Look 70 takes place a day before the runway show at Mercer Hotel, witnessed by Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard. The dress is draped over a long white jersey dress with an opaque transparency. The look is completed with statements of embellished necklace featuring 3 scarab beetle pendants, cuff bracelets, a buckled belt and gold leather sandals.

See the rest of Chanel Metiers d'art 2018/2019 collection here.

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