MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: (EDITOR NOTE: This image has been converted to black and white) Fashion designer Giorgio Armani acknowledges the applause of the audience at the Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 on February 25, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images)
Cover 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 25: (EDITOR NOTE: This image has been converted to black and white) Fashion designer Giorgio Armani acknowledges the applause of the audience at the Giorgio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2024-2025 on February 25, 2024 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images)

人生朝露,時尚千秋。Giorgio Armani,這位義大利時尚巨擘,永遠改變了明星在盛裝時的樣貌,近半個世紀以來,他用無數奧斯卡得獎西裝與華麗晚禮服,填滿了紅毯。

本週,我們失去了一位時尚巨擘,Giorgio Armani離開了我們,享年91歲。Armani先生在摯愛親人的陪伴下,安詳辭世。

Armani集團官方也宣布:「帶著無比的哀痛,我們創辦人、靈魂人物與不懈推動者 Giorgio Armani 與世長辭。Armani先生在摯愛親人的陪伴下,安詳辭世。他不知疲倦,直到最後一刻仍持續工作,專注於公司、系列作品,以及各種正在進行與即將誕生的計畫。」

雖說這象徵著一個時尚世代的落幕,但讓我們將時光拉回 1980 年代,那是 Giorgio Armani 先生生涯中最關鍵的時刻。他的設計因頻繁出現在好萊塢電影、電視節目與頒獎典禮紅毯上,Giorgio Armani 成為「權力裝扮」的代名詞。

延伸閱讀:他辯證:西裝也能很性感!由前律師轉身創立的巴黎品牌 HUSBANDS,取材自文學與電影,帶你穿出左岸的知性與感性
 

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Richard Gere during Tibet Film Festival at Anthology Film Archives in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Above 理查·基爾 穿上 Giorgio Armani (Photo: Getty)
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BEVERLY HILLS, CA - JANUARY 20:   Actress Julia Roberts attends the 47th Annual Golden Globe Awards on January 20, 1990 at Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Above 茱莉亞·羅勃茲 (Julia Roberts) 憑《鋼木蘭》奪下金球獎時,穿著Giorgio Armani oversized西裝褲裝,也被視為女性力量與優雅的象徵。 (Photo: Getty)
Richard Gere during Tibet Film Festival at Anthology Film Archives in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
BEVERLY HILLS, CA - JANUARY 20:   Actress Julia Roberts attends the 47th Annual Golden Globe Awards on January 20, 1990 at Beverly Hilton Hotel in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

是權力,還是發自內裡的底氣?

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Actress Michelle Pfeiffer, designer Giorgio Armani, model Anjelica Huston, model Lauren Hutton, and guests attend "Made in Milan" film premiere. The film is directed by Martin Scorsese, and the dinner is organized by Giorgio Armani. Both events took place on the last day of the Venice Film Festival. (Photo by Art Streiber/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
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Designer Giorgio Armani poses for a portrait (Photo by Michel Maurou/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Above 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
Actress Michelle Pfeiffer, designer Giorgio Armani, model Anjelica Huston, model Lauren Hutton, and guests attend "Made in Milan" film premiere. The film is directed by Martin Scorsese, and the dinner is organized by Giorgio Armani. Both events took place on the last day of the Venice Film Festival. (Photo by Art Streiber/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Designer Giorgio Armani poses for a portrait (Photo by Michel Maurou/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)

理查·基爾 (Richard Gere) 在《美國舞男》(American Gigolo) 中身著 Giorgio Armani 西裝,讓品牌一夕之間揚名全球;而茱莉亞·羅勃茲 (Julia Roberts) 憑《鋼木蘭》奪下金球獎時,穿的那身oversized西裝褲裝,也被視為女性力量與優雅的象徵。

Armani 的標誌性設計,讓當時的好萊塢巨星爭相穿上 。與其說是權力,不如說是一種風骨,讓人由內而外覺得自己好看,優雅且有底氣的自信。也為女性西裝注入柔韌線條與力量感。到了 90 年代,媒體甚至以「Armani 頒獎典禮」來形容其壟斷級的影響力。

一個帝國的誕生

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PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Designer Giorgio Armani walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 04, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)
Above 一代時尚傳奇 Giorgio Armani (Photo: Getty)
PARIS, FRANCE - JULY 04: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Designer Giorgio Armani walks the runway during the Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on July 04, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images)

在這十年間,Armani 持續擴張他的時尚商業帝國,推出 Emporio Armani、Armani Jeans、Armani Exchange 等副線,並跨足香水、配飾、彩妝與家居領域。1981 年,他發表首款香水「Armani」,隨後更成功打造出一系列膾炙人口的香氛,讓品牌的多元化布局徹底穩固了其高端地位。

這位總是身著海軍藍的大師,用近半世紀的歲月詮釋了「永恆的優雅」。他的離去,標誌著一個時代的終章,但他留下的美學遺產,將繼續塑造未來的時尚語言。

讓我們回到1980-90年代

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Jodie Foster and guest (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Above 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
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Steven Spielberg during 62nd Annual Academy Awards at Music Center in Los Angeles, California, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Above 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
Jodie Foster and guest (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Steven Spielberg during 62nd Annual Academy Awards at Music Center in Los Angeles, California, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
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Denzel Washington at the Music Center in Los Angeles, California (Photo by Barry King/WireImage)
Above 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
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EDITORIAL USE ONLY: Matt Damon, left, and Ben Affleck, right, winners, Writing (Screenplay Written Directly for the Screen) (GOOD WILL HUNTING), and Robin Williams, winner, Actor in a Supporting Role (GOOD WILL HUNTING), hold their statuettes backstage at the 1997 (70th) Academy Awards ceremony. Photographer's stamp on verso.  (Photo by Long Photography/The Academy via Getty Images)
Above 再見了Armani 先生,何謂「Armani 紅毯」?穿上Giorgio Armani不只是權力,是發自內裡優雅有底氣 (Photo: Getty)
Denzel Washington at the Music Center in Los Angeles, California (Photo by Barry King/WireImage)
EDITORIAL USE ONLY: Matt Damon, left, and Ben Affleck, right, winners, Writing (Screenplay Written Directly for the Screen) (GOOD WILL HUNTING), and Robin Williams, winner, Actor in a Supporting Role (GOOD WILL HUNTING), hold their statuettes backstage at the 1997 (70th) Academy Awards ceremony. Photographer's stamp on verso.  (Photo by Long Photography/The Academy via Getty Images)

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Hou Chou
Head of Social Content, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia

About

又名厚片。Tatler Taiwan 的 社群內容主編(Head of Social Content)。以有趣視角挖掘寶藏,喜歡深度時尚、地下音樂、美學藝術與人情故事。MBTI聽說是EIEI。

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除了整體數位與社群內容營運,也負責男性時尚與文化內容(Fashion & Culture),包含音樂、電影、藝術、攝影。不限紙本與數位,以深度品牌故事、人物專訪與名人報導為主。

David.chou@tatlerasia.com

IG: Davidchochi