Cover Sabato De Sarno 接任 Gucci 創意總監,9月時裝週舉辦他的首秀。(Photo : Gucci)

美國二手手袋交易平台 Rebag 發佈了2023年奢侈時尚轉售報告,值得注意的是,Rebag 2022年的報告取得 228% 驚人成績,被公認為最具標誌性的二手轉售保值數據報告。這也讓2023的報告更具公正與潛力,其中2023 年平均價值保留率再破紀錄!而些許主要品牌的平均價值略有下降,若你也是精明的二手精品/奢侈品買家,那麼一定可以從趨勢中找到擁有投資潛力、許多人夢寐以求的奢華包款!

來到2024年,在新年前是否也正在加快腳步除舊換新呢?根據美國二手手袋交易平台 Rebag發佈的2023年奢侈時尚轉售報告指出,愛馬仕手袋平均保值率提升至110%左右,Goyard則是緊跟在後,保值率同樣超過100%。接續則是平均保值率降至85%左右的Chanel,LV同樣下滑至85%以下。而平均來到55%到70%區間的品牌由高至低有Saint Laurent、Gucci、Dior、Loewe、Balenciaga、Fendi、Prada,保值率低於55%以下則是 Bottega Veneta、Celine、Givenchy、Valentino,在二手市場的成交價格約為售價的40%至50%左右。若你也有手袋想轉售或是想以最好的價格購入,那麼這篇絕對值得細細品嚐!

延伸閱讀:2023時尚購物地TOP10:「亞洲這些城市」超好買、巴黎居然摔出前三!到歐洲買精品已經落伍!
 

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Above 美國二手手袋交易平台 Rebag 發佈2023年奢侈時尚轉售報告。

愛馬仕包款平均保值率連續四年位居榜首

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English actress Jane Birkin on the set of the movie La Moutarde Me Monte au Nez (Lucky Pierre), directed by Claude Zidi. (Photo by jean-Louis Atlan/Sygma via Getty Images)
Above Jane Birkin (Photo by jean-Louis Atlan/Sygma via Getty Images)
English actress Jane Birkin on the set of the movie La Moutarde Me Monte au Nez (Lucky Pierre), directed by Claude Zidi. (Photo by jean-Louis Atlan/Sygma via Getty Images)
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TOKYO, JAPAN - MARCH 26:  Singer Jane Birkin attends the  'Jane Birkin sings Serge Gainsbourg "VIA JAPAN"' press conference at L'Institut Franco-Japonais de Tokyo on March 26, 2013 in Tokyo, Japan.  (Photo by Jun Sato/WireImage)
Above Jane Birkin (Photo by Jun Sato/WireImage)
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Above Kelly Pochette 包款。
TOKYO, JAPAN - MARCH 26:  Singer Jane Birkin attends the  'Jane Birkin sings Serge Gainsbourg "VIA JAPAN"' press conference at L'Institut Franco-Japonais de Tokyo on March 26, 2013 in Tokyo, Japan.  (Photo by Jun Sato/WireImage)

幾十年來,愛馬仕在二手市場以及奢侈品零售領域依然擁有不可撼動的至尊地位,今年依然位居榜首難以超越,其中包含了愛馬仕今年再次調漲價格,此做法讓平均值保留率增加。而7月傳奇時尚偶像珍·柏金 (Jane Birkin) 去世也使人們激發對於擁有柏金包的渴望。保值率超過100%的款式排名為:愛馬仕康康包(Constance)、菜籃子(picotin)、凱莉包(Kelly)。另外,愛馬仕的 Kelly Pochette 自 2022 年以來成長 93%,成為最有成長價值的手袋,尺寸以1978 年推出的 Kelly Pochette 比 Mini Kelly 20 大一些,能夠裝下大多數標準尺寸的手機。

電影《芭比Barbie》助香奈兒一臂之力

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Above 而限量配色或是特殊製造生產方式皆屬於香奈兒保值率最高價值的,標誌性且經典配色則也同樣擁有投資吸引力,例如香奈兒經典口蓋包(Classic Flap Bag)與去年相比增加了42%。
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MEXICO CITY, MEXICO - JULY 07: Margot Robbie poses during the photocall for the film 'Barbie' at Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City on July 07, 2023 in Mexico City, Mexico. (Photo by Hector Vivas/Getty Images)
Above 《芭比Barbie》裡和女主角瑪格羅比在紅毯上的香奈兒包款引起話題。(Photo by Hector Vivas/Getty Images)
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PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 03: Amelia Gray is seen outside Chanel show wearing black Chanel sunnies, white Chanel tweed tank top and a peach colored Chanel 22 tote leather bag and dark blue low waist jeans during the Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 as part of  Paris Fashion Week on October 03, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above 香奈兒22包(Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
MEXICO CITY, MEXICO - JULY 07: Margot Robbie poses during the photocall for the film 'Barbie' at Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City on July 07, 2023 in Mexico City, Mexico. (Photo by Hector Vivas/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER 03: Amelia Gray is seen outside Chanel show wearing black Chanel sunnies, white Chanel tweed tank top and a peach colored Chanel 22 tote leather bag and dark blue low waist jeans during the Womenswear Spring/Summer 2024 as part of  Paris Fashion Week on October 03, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

今年同樣調漲價格的還有品牌香奈兒,作為其半年策略的一部分,我們再次看到二手市場價格的相應上漲。保值率超過100%的款式排名為:香奈兒托特沙灘包( Deauville Tote)、香奈兒22包(22 Chain Hobo) 和香奈兒Coco包款 (Coco Top Handle Bag),超過其在轉售市場上的初始零售價值,展現出歷久不衰的魅力!而限量配色或是特殊製造生產方式皆屬於香奈兒保值率最高價值的,標誌性且經典配色則也同樣擁有投資吸引力,例如香奈兒經典口蓋包(Classic Flap Bag)與去年相比增加了42%。另外,今年爆紅的還有從去年就開始瘋狂洗版的「芭比粉」,從Valentino Pink系列到電影《芭比Barbie》上映,讓粉紅色包款的平均價值維持在 81%,超過所有其他顏色總和的 76% 平均保值率。而最令人驚訝的是,大家在挑選芭比粉包款時,排名前二都由香奈兒包辦,尤其是在電影《芭比Barbie》裡和女主角瑪格羅比在紅毯上的造型包款。

Fendi 排名攀升!CELINE 「這款包」突破79%保值率!

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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: Grece Ghanem seen wearing a purple Fendi sparkling baguette, a purple cropped puffer jacket, a patterned long dress and dark shades before the Viktor & Rolf show on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above Fendi Baguette 包款(Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25: Grece Ghanem seen wearing a purple Fendi sparkling baguette, a purple cropped puffer jacket, a patterned long dress and dark shades before the Viktor & Rolf show on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

Fendi 2023年平均保值率達 57%排名攀升,超越82%保值率的兩款包有Fendi Mama Forever和 Baguette 包款,加上《慾望城市:華麗下半場2》對Fendi 有莫大的影響力,兩款主打手袋 Peekaboo 和 Baguette ,後者與主角凱莉有著長期的連結,在開播期間Baguette包款增加了 34%,而Peekaboo 的平均值顯著增長了 48%。

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NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 12: Fashion show guest is seen wearing black pants, a brown jacket and a brown celine triomphe bag with golden ornaments before the Gabriela Hearst Fashion Show on September 12, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above CELINE Triomphe 包款 (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK - SEPTEMBER 12: Fashion show guest is seen wearing black pants, a brown jacket and a brown celine triomphe bag with golden ornaments before the Gabriela Hearst Fashion Show on September 12, 2023 in New York City. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

儘管大眾對CELINE 褒貶不一,但有著年輕世代與Z世代的引領潮流的消費者加持,又受到Blackpink 的 Lisa與Kaia Gerber 等品牌大使的推動,讓創意總監Hedi Slimane 的多款包在二手市場上擁有不錯的反響,尤其是 Ava 和 Triomphe 為 Celine 的平均保值率貢獻了 49%。

2023奢華手袋的流行趨勢

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Above LOEWE 2024 早春系列形象廣告(Photo : LOEWE)

2023年的流行趨勢無疑是「安靜的奢華」(Quiet Luxury),以低調的優雅勝過浮誇的設計。其中 Loewe、The Row 和 Bottega Veneta 等品牌以無標誌和工藝精緻的設計最令人印象深刻,今年保值率分別為60%、59% 和 52%。 Loewe 在 2013 年由創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 的領導下,以前衛的設計與精湛的工藝將傳統結合,Basket 手提包為今年最受歡迎的夏季包款之一,而Puzzle依然為品牌最熱門的包款之一!

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HAMBURG, GERMANY - NOVEMBER 12: Isabelle Hartmann seen wearing gold earrings, Miu Miu khaki green knit pullover, matching Miu Miu khaki green knit wool short jacket, matching Miu Miu khaki green knit wool short skirt, The Row brown leather bag, on November 12, 2023 in Hamburg, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above Isabelle Hartmann 手提The Row 包包(Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
HAMBURG, GERMANY - NOVEMBER 12: Isabelle Hartmann seen wearing gold earrings, Miu Miu khaki green knit pullover, matching Miu Miu khaki green knit wool short jacket, matching Miu Miu khaki green knit wool short skirt, The Row brown leather bag, on November 12, 2023 in Hamburg, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

由Mary-Kate Olsen和Ashley Olsen姐妹推出的的The Row以極簡奢華而聞名,今年受到相當多時尚編輯與「It」時髦女孩的追捧,以及超模Gigi Hadid、 Elsa Hosk 和 Kendall Jenner 的加持,讓The Row今年一直都在話題上,不曾減低。

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HAMBURG, GERMANY - NOVEMBER 13: Britta Becker seen wearing TWELVE by Britta Becker beige merino wool knit triangle pattern long coat, TWELVE by Britta Becker black leggings, Bottega Veneta beige leather Teen Jodie shoulder bag, white cotton socks and UGG black suede leather boots, on November 13, 2023 in Hamburg, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
Above BV Jodie Hobo 包款(Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)
HAMBURG, GERMANY - NOVEMBER 13: Britta Becker seen wearing TWELVE by Britta Becker beige merino wool knit triangle pattern long coat, TWELVE by Britta Becker black leggings, Bottega Veneta beige leather Teen Jodie shoulder bag, white cotton socks and UGG black suede leather boots, on November 13, 2023 in Hamburg, Germany. (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

Matthieu Blazy 擔任 Bottega Veneta 創意總監近兩年後,在其前任 Daniel Lee 任職期間推出的手袋,如BV Jodie Hobo 和 Cassette Chain Crossbody Bag 轉售表現強勁。

2024最有潛力的包款居然是「它」!

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Above 在Sabato De Sarno的帶領下已經看到了他對 Jackie包款大刀闊斧的改革與重視。(Photo : Gucci)
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Above Sabato De Sarno 接任 Gucci 創意總監,9月時裝週舉辦他的首秀。(Photo : Gucci)
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Above Jackie包款。(Photo : Gucci)

2023 年,有幾個主要品牌經歷了重大的創意變革。今年2月 Daniel Lee 在倫敦時裝週舉辦他的Burberry首秀,而 Pharrell Williams 接任 Louis Vuitton 男裝創意總監,6 月在巴黎時裝週展示了他對Louis Vuitton 的願景 ; Sabato De Sarno 接任 Gucci 創意總監,在9月舉辦他的首秀。10月Chemena Kamali 接任Chloé創意總監一。即將邁入2024,在報告中提到,最期待看到兩大創意總監Daniel Lee與Sabato De Sarno 在新角色中的蛻變,也是明年最值得看好的兩大品牌,若你也正準備投資一款包袋,不如朝Gucci  Jackie下手!在Sabato De Sarno的帶領下已經看到了他對 Jackie包款大刀闊斧的改革與重視,我們就準備好在明年為Jackie包騰出衣櫃空間吧!

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Keira Lu
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia
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Keira Lu

Fashion Editor, Taiwan

keira.lu@tatlerasia.com