MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2023/2024 on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
Cover Prada 2023 秋冬大秀。圖片來源/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2023/2024 on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)

Prada 讓盛開花朵出現於各種單品,似乎呼應本季想訴說「Taking Care」,透過服裝傳遞關懷與愛的能量,即使生活存有悲傷,不過亦如含苞的花朵般有待綻放。

面對後疫情時代,我們真正需要的服裝是什麼樣?「時尚」兩字從來都不是 Miuccia Prada 所追求,每回 Prada 的新發表都是對社會的一次次反思,自 Raf Simons 加入品牌後,Miuccia Prada 挑戰美的定義的叛逆風格與 Raf Simons 的實用主義,兩人之間的化學效應讓 Prada 多了不同面貌。

延續一月男裝週概念,2023 秋冬大秀一樣選在 Prada 藝術基金會舉行,現場簡單以花卉裝飾,從大秀邀請函附上的白色摺紙百合花便能大概猜出,「花朵」是本季的重要元素,而 Miuccia Prada 跟 Raf Simons 也想藉由鮮花與工業風格的空間,自然與人造間的對比,還有光影照射下,空間放大縮小交替,讓觀者重新思考人事物的交互關係。

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2023/2024 on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)
Above Prada 2023 秋冬大秀。圖片來源/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway at the Prada fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2023/2024 on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage)

以制服挑戰美的定義

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MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Prada 2023 秋冬大秀。圖片來源/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

這回大秀以「Taking Care」為題,探討世俗的審美標準,「我在意的是謙虛、有價值的工作,而不僅僅是極致的美麗或魅力。」Miuccia Prada 說道,而人生第一場秀就是以制服為主軸的 Raf Simons 剛好與 Miuccia Prada 都喜歡制服某種程度所帶有的隱喻性概念。

Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。

緊扣 Taking Care 主題,兩人認為制服是關懷和責任的最佳服裝代表,而因制服過往給人制式、沒有特別性的印象,Miuccia Prada 與 Raf Simons 將護士的白衣及軍士襯衫重新改良為長版襯衫裙,立領軍裝大衣不僅時髦還能修飾身形,與高級時裝並無違和。

藉此讓觀者重新思考及探索美的定義,傳遞美並非由「審美」決定,而是行動,穿上制服認真的樣子何嘗不是人最美的模樣。

自我保護

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Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。

Miuccia Prada 與 Raf Simons 似乎透過具有保護與溫暖意涵的皮革與麂皮外套、寬大繭形大衣,及延續 2023 秋冬男裝宛如枕頭的羽絨面料,溫柔提醒或許眼下這個時刻,我們所需要 Taking Care 的其實是自己。

婚服天天穿有何不可?

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Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。

本季除了制服,鉛筆裙、澎裙迷你裙等各式裙裝也是一大重點,Raf Simons 在後台受訪時表示象徵愛情的婚紗也是具有關懷之意的服裝,於是他將婚紗上經常見到的花朵、蕾絲等裝飾移植到日常單品,簡單搭配針織毛衣或西裝大衣,即使不是結婚或正式場合,婚紗也能成為平時搭配的服裝。

花朵藏寓意

Tatler Asia
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Tatler Asia
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
Tatler Asia
Above Prada 2023 秋冬系列。
MILAN, ITALY - FEBRUARY 23: A model walks the runway during the Prada Ready to Wear Fall/Winter 2023-2024 fashion show as part of the Milan Fashion Week on February 23, 2023 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

這些織物花朵也以不同形式出現於鞋子包款上,盛放於細膩繁複的紗質半身裙,以摺紙方式作為鞋頭的亮點設計,還有以壓紋手法呈現於硬挺包款,不僅展現品牌的精湛工藝,也為本季的制服及實用主義增添一股浪漫之意。

從邀請函、秀場佈置到設計,花朵成為本季貫穿「Taking Care」的重要元素,即使生活存有悲傷,藉由服裝保護自己並傳遞關懷與愛的能量,相信每個人都能如這些花朵漂亮綻放。

繼續閱讀:

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Daniel Lee入主Burberry首秀登場!爆款製造機再發威、破格設計竟藏溫馨寓意

大秀當萬人演唱會開、連賓士也開進場!Moncler Genius首登倫敦時裝週,Pharrell Williams、藤原浩史詩級合作名單超夢幻 

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Vera Chen
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia

Fashion Editor 時尚編輯

vera.chen@tatlerasia.com