Cover Inside the process of designing a bespoke suit with Q Menswear (Photo: Q Menswear)
Inside the process of designing a bespoke suit with Q Menswear (Photo: Q Menswear)
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How this Tatler Singapore writer made her mark at the Tatler Ball with a Le Smoking-inspired bespoke suit
When couturier Yves Saint Laurent created the Le Smoking in 1966, it revolutionised women’s fashion. Blurring gender lines, the first female suit was the Maison founder’s take on the classic tuxedo but cut with a sleek collar and an elegantly tapered waist. Decades later, the unapologetically androgynous suit continues to push boundaries, proving Saint Laurent to be right when he said, “Fashion fades, style is eternal”.
With this year’s Tatler Ball theme being Make Your Mark, it was only apt to make my mark at the ball with a tribute to Saint Laurent’s iconic creation—and there’s nowhere better to create a Le Smoking-inspired piece than at Q Menswear. Founded by Chong Han San in 2011, Q Menswear offers bespoke suits with a modern approach. Chong is at the helm and has been artfully tailoring bespoke ensembles for 15 years.
As someone who has never had anything custom-made before, it was important for me to choose a tailor that made me feel comfortable through each step of the process—and Chong does just that. Even while conversing over text, Chong’s passion for his art and desire to connect with his customers on a deeper level was apparent. I was excited to make an appointment with Chong, who was willing to design a Le Smoking-inspired piece.
Read more: 4 bespoke clothing designers in Singapore who continue to inspire the next generation
Above Inside Q Menswear
Above Chong taking measurements before drafting the suit on paper
Inside Q Menswear
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My first consultation with Chong began with a discussion about our ideas for the suit—from the design to the fabric. We decided on a simple yet elegantly fitted piece, adding a cinched waist and flared bottoms for a more feminine touch.
Choosing a fabric was the next challenge—who knew there were so many to pick from? The label offers an expansive selection of luxurious fabrics and textures ranging from quality Egyptian cotton to high-end pure wool materials. At Chong’s suggestion, I went for a stunning deep blue fabric, whose colours were enhanced when admired under the sun.
The inner lining of the suit is just as important as what’s outside. Once I decided on my suit fabric, the next hurdle was picking an inner lining. Chong proceeded to show me another vast library of lining fabrics, this time with bold colours and designs including skull heads, roses and bright neon shades. Sticking to the blue theme, I opted for a vibrant blue Peranakan print.
Above Loosely constructed suit for the first fitting
Loosely constructed suit for the first fitting
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From there, Chong took multiple measurements and pictures before drafting the suit on paper. He shared that some customers can spend hours deciding on fabrics, colours and linings.
Explaining more about the creation process, he explained that the pattern will be drawn from the various measurements taken, laid out on the cloth and trimmed. It will then be canvassed and loosely constructed for a first fitting, which would be a few weeks after the first consultation.
The first fitting allowed me to see an almost finished suit. I got to try on the pieces as Chong made some necessary changes, further guiding me to perform various movements to ensure that the suit fit my body perfectly. We also had a quick consultation where I shared how I would like the fit and silhouette to be. While it was not yet a fully constructed suit, I now had a clearer idea of what the final design would look like.
Above Final outfit
Final outfit
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My final appointment for a last fitting and to collect my suit was just in time for the ball. At the final fitting, it was finally time to try on the full suit, including a white custom-made blouse. Of course, the suit fit perfectly, thanks to Chong’s meticulous measurements. Chong also gave me some advice on how to properly clean and care for the suit, for it to last.
Through the suit, I was able to see Chong’s unwavering passion for his craft, as well as for his customers—helping them feel confident and comfortable in every step of the tailoring journey.
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Amanda Goh was the former senior writer for Tatler Singapore.
