HONG KONG, CHINA - NOVEMBER 30: Pharrell Williams, Men's Creative Director at Louis Vuitton, attends the Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Fall 2024 fashion show on November 30, 2023 in Hong Kong, China. (Photo by Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images)
Cover 菲董(Pharrell Williams)接手 Virgil abloh 後的男裝創意總監一職。(Photo by Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images)
HONG KONG, CHINA - NOVEMBER 30: Pharrell Williams, Men's Creative Director at Louis Vuitton, attends the Louis Vuitton Men's Pre-Fall 2024 fashion show on November 30, 2023 in Hong Kong, China. (Photo by Billy H.C. Kwok/Getty Images)

根據巴黎路透社報導,LVMH 上週四公布第四季度銷售額增長10%,在最後三個月的銷售額接近240億歐元,達到了2023年創紀錄的高峰業績。

上週四收盤公佈的業績中,LVMH第四季銷售額成長10%,股價一度上漲12.8%,創下15年來最大的單日漲幅,收盤價至773.1歐元,高於市場以及分析師預期。該集團執行長阿爾諾(Bernard Arnault)表示,他對 LVMH 的成長率感到相當滿意,並對2024年「非常有信心」。面對去年下半年的通膨高漲,奢侈品行業銷售皆呈現低迷狀態,英國時裝品牌Burberry還因此大幅下調了 2024 年的獲利預期。因此LVMH集團成功扭轉奢侈品行業股票近期的部分跌勢,讓投資者皆對2023年業績和積極的前景表示歡喜。而在時尚和皮具部門(包含最大品牌LV和Dior)銷售額在本季度也增長了9%,究竟是什麼原因使品牌表現力度依然持續高漲呢?

延續閱讀:2024調漲搶先看:愛馬仕、香奈兒、PRADA與FENDI預計新年漲價!
 

「我的使命之一就是昇華Louis Vuitton的經典」

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PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 07:  Nicolas Ghesquiere walks the runway during the Louis Vuitton show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018 on March 7, 2017 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Above LV女裝創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière.(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 07:  Nicolas Ghesquiere walks the runway during the Louis Vuitton show as part of the Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2017/2018 on March 7, 2017 in Paris, France.  (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
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PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, on the runway during the Louis Vuitton Womenswear Fall Winter 2023-2024 show at Musee d'Orsay as part of Paris Fashion Week at Orsay Museum on March 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
Above Louis Vuitton Womenswear Fall Winter 2023-2024 show.(Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
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PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, on the runway during the Louis Vuitton Womenswear Fall Winter 2023-2024 show at Musee d'Orsay as part of Paris Fashion Week at Orsay Museum on March 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
Above Louis Vuitton Womenswear Fall Winter 2023-2024 show.(Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, on the runway during the Louis Vuitton Womenswear Fall Winter 2023-2024 show at Musee d'Orsay as part of Paris Fashion Week at Orsay Museum on March 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 06: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, on the runway during the Louis Vuitton Womenswear Fall Winter 2023-2024 show at Musee d'Orsay as part of Paris Fashion Week at Orsay Museum on March 06, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Richard Bord/Getty Images)

作為LVMH集團的兩大王牌Louis Vuitton和Dior,LV在去年11月與上任10年的女裝創意總監Nicolas Ghesquière又續簽了五年合約。在大牌創意總監頻繁更換的年代,是對Nicolas Ghesquière的一種高度認可。而根據消息指出,自從Nicolas Ghesquière2013年加入LV後,女裝成衣銷售額翻了五倍以上,整體收入增長兩倍。

其中最受矚目的設計包款包含了靈感來自LV的經典旅行箱的「LV Petite Malle」、優雅且高級感十足的「LV Capucines」、擁有現代感特殊轉釦的「LV Twist」、呼應LV傳統風格「LV Dauphine」以及2023系列中蓬鬆菱格紋熱賣包款「GO-14」。LV將在他的設計領導下持續推出經典款,為品牌站穩腳步的基石。

Pharrell Williams 為LV男裝開拓創新

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Above LOUIS VUITTON MENS SPRING-SUMMER 2024(Photo : Louis Vuitton)
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PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 20: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Louis Vuitton Men's Creative Director Pharrell Williams acknowledges the applause of the audience after the Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 20, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images)
Above Pharrell Williams巴黎SS24首秀。(Photo by Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 20: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) Louis Vuitton Men's Creative Director Pharrell Williams acknowledges the applause of the audience after the Louis Vuitton Menswear Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on June 20, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Aurelien Meunier/Getty Images)

LV最初以生產高品質的旅行箱而聞名,隨著時間的推移,LV逐漸擴大了產品線,包括手袋、配飾、時裝和其他奢侈品。品牌的女裝部門在其長久的歷史中經歷了多次變革和創新,並吸引了眾多傑出的設計師,以不斷推出具有時尚和經典特色的女裝系列。不過LV的男裝部門相對較晚成立,因此每位男裝藝術總監都為LV男裝帶來了極具創新、變革性的風格和元素。去年2月,品牌簽下了菲董(Pharrell Williams)接手 Virgil abloh後的男裝創意總監一職,Pharrell Williams 作為一位跨界藝術家在音樂界、時尚界都擁有非凡的影響力,因此他上任的目的就是將LV男裝再次創新走向全新紀元。在巴黎的SS24首秀引發了業內與消費者的高度關注,帶點潮流玩味的設計以及動用好人脈使大秀在社交媒體上獲得了超過10億的瀏覽量,創下了時尚界的新紀錄,在上架發售後也已獲得高度反響,看來消費者相當為將品牌「大膽、創新」的男裝價值買單。

Dior化妝品和香水跨大了其在主要市場的領導地位

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Above 韓韶禧出席Dior 2024 春夏高級訂製服系列大秀身穿Dior 2024 春夏成衣系列。(Photo :IG/xeesoxee)
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Above 韓韶禧出席Dior 2024 春夏高級訂製服系列大秀身穿Dior 2024 春夏成衣系列。(Photo :IG/xeesoxee)

而同樣為LVMH集團奢侈品牌Dior在去年也有著顯著的成長,去年底宣布周杰倫和迪麗熱巴為全球品牌大使。由女裝創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 、男裝創意總監 Kim Jones 以及全新高級珠寶系列策劃下,時裝秀展示了品牌卓越的工藝,而Dior化妝品和香水也達到了驚人的業績,跨大了其在主要市場的領導地位。根據外媒數據顯示,Dior在2023年成為線上最受歡迎的奢侈品牌,官網流量大漲48%。

不斷提高其品牌的吸引力,利用其產品的真實性和質量

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Above LOEWE 新光三越 Diamond Towers 臨時專門店。

與此同時,LVMH集團時裝品牌在 Hedi Slimane 的設計和時裝秀的成功推動下,Celine 的受歡迎程度不斷提高。Loewe 的成長繼續受到 JW Anderson 大膽、富有創意的領導力以及最新皮革製品設計的成功的推動。Loro Piana 成長強勁,並推出了首個採用回收羊絨製成的膠囊系列。Fendi擴大了其零售網絡。Rimowa、Marc Jacobs 和 Berluti 都有出色的表現。

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Keira Lu
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia
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Keira Lu

Fashion Editor, Taiwan

keira.lu@tatlerasia.com