10 London Fashion Week Highlights, According To Olivia Croucher Buckingham
- Kurt Geiger x Susie BubbleKurt Geiger x Susie Bubble
- Burberry x Dover Street MarketBurberry x Dover Street Market
- Ports 1961Ports 1961
- Alexa ChungAlexa Chung
- Simone RochaSimone Rocha
- Vivienne WestwoodVivienne Westwood
- Peter PilottoPeter Pilotto
- JW AndersonJW Anderson
- Huishan ZhangHuishan Zhang
- Fashion Fund FairFashion Fund Fair
From Susie Bubble’s Kurt Geiger collaboration to the Fashion Fund Fair hosted by Natalia Voidianova, Olivia lists her favourite shows and parties from London Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2019
Kurt Geiger x Susie Bubble
London Fashion Week kicked off with an event in the Flower Room at Annabel's to launch Kurt Geiger’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection and a special “character style” campaign. Susie Bubble styled her own edit for the campaign and hosted the event alongside the footwear label’s chief creative officer Rebecca Farley Hockley.
Bryanboy, Leaf Greener and Jamie QQ Wu were all in attendance to show support. Expect lots of bright colours and embellished details (from crystals and glitter to perspex and chains) for the coming season.
Burberry x Dover Street Market
Next up was a party with Dover Street Market to celebrate the drop of Ricardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry with a party in London’s Haymarket.
Topping everyone’s wishlist was Tisci’s punk take on the British label’s classic trench coat. Guests in attendance included Suzy Menkes and the British Fashion Council’s Clara Mercer.
With a knack for tailoring with an edge, Ports 1961 has quickly become one of my favourite shows during London Fashion Week. This season’s show was all about perfectly constructed imperfect designs.
Conventional white shirts were slit to emphasise the midriff, wool jumpers were sliced to expose the back, while jackets, suits and even trench coats were subtly twisted. I’ll take one of everything, please!
Alexa Chung’s love of feminine style with edgy elements continues to shine through in her second fashion show. Leather trenches were styled over prairie dresses, while her signature corduroy suit was given a luxe upgrade—offered up in a rich emerald green velvet.
While Chung’s collection was inspired by her travels to the West, expect nothing of the cowboy variety but rather styles from America reminiscent of the 1980’s—1983 to be precise, which is the year the fashionista-turned-designer was born.
Simone Rocha presented her collection with a star-studded cast of all ages. Models ranged from actress and director Chloë Sevigny to Marie Sophie Wilson—who was Helmut Newton’s muse—to Benedetta Barzini at 75 years old.
Rocha’s beautiful and opulent designs drew inspiration from fabric tapestries by the late artist Louise Bourgeois, while the show venue (The Royal Academy) proved to be equally stunning.
This show was unlike any other during London Fashion Week and I was left left quite speechless, which is ironic considering the message of the show was freedom of speech. Actress Rose McGowan walked in the politically charged show, which touched on topics that ranged from Brexit to climate change.
Never one to shy away from controversy, Westwood made no exception and in this case her views could not have been more loud or clear. The show, or should we say “protest”, covered almost every global problem that we are facing. Overcoats were covered in Julian Assange quotes, while messages of “buy less” were printed on bags and shoes.
In the halls of the grand library of the Reform Club, the feminine and floaty designs of design duo Peter Pilotto and Christophe de Vos cascaded through the intimate venue. A palette of rainbow colours beautifully transformed feathered and embellished frocks, which were finished off with glitter ankle sock and stockings—a nod to disco days.
The array of botanical and floral silks added another dimension to a truly spectacular show.
Arguably one of the stand-out events this season, the JW Anderson show took place inside the intimate setting of Yeomanry House, where a thick fluffy cream carpet and rock-like forms were displayed on the square-shaped catwalk.
Anderson drew inspiration for the collection from two places—a documentary about Japan and Quad, a television play by Samuel Beckett. Experiments with structure and form came through in the garments' winged, architectural shoulders, balloon sleeves and draped silhouettes. The eye-catching equestrian helmets were definitely a talking point, along with oversized gold chain chokers, which will definitely top every editor’s accessory wishlist for next season.
Huishan Zhang is always at the forefront of refined femininity, and this season was no exception. The collection was an homage to 1950’s screen sirens, while his dresses, separates and tuxedo looks were all decorated with taffeta, ruffles and pearls fit for a princess.
Honouring his Chinese roots, the designer also injected elements of cheongsam into the collection. It was romanticism in its truest form.
Fashion Fund Fair
The Fashion Fund Fair was one of this week’s highlights and it was the perfect way to wrap London Fashion Week. Hosted by supermodel Natalia Vodianova, the fair celebrated its 5th anniversary at Roundhouse in Camden. The charitable event raised money to help support families who have children with special needs through Natalia’s charity, the Naked Heart Foundation.
The fair’s theme this year took inspiration from Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, while A-list guests spotted include David and Victoria Beckham, as well as model Adwoa Aboah.