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From Saloni, Sass & Bide to Issa, we bring you our London Fashion Week Autumn 2011 runway report
See our photo coverage of the Hong Kong Fashion Extravaganza event here.
With a stunning show of strength from the fashion designers who presented in London Fashion Week such as Zoe Jordon, Danielle Issa Hellayel, Saloni Lodha and Sarah-Jane Clarke & Heidi Middleton, the runway was glittered with fine tailoring, flashes of colour and a renewed energy from the London scene. Gone was the usual hint of grunge from the runways, but instead we were presented a well-travelled, playful yet elegant showing of looks. While London Fashion Week came to a close this week, the verdict is in: We travel house to house chronologically and give our runway report of the autumn 2011 collection.
Read our runway report on London Fashion Week Spring 2011 here.
Read more on out runway report on London Fashion Week Spring 2011 here.
Friday 18th February 2011
IRWIN & JORDAN
Fashion week began for me with Zoe Jordan's A/W 2011 of Irwin & Jordan. Model and friend Poppy Delevigne and I arrived at The Haymarket Hotel where Zoe showcased her first catwalk show during London Fashion Week just having won the Elle/British Fashion Council Talent Launch Pad accolade. Front row saw the likes of Natalie Imbruglia, Stuart Rose, Harold Tillman and of course Zoe's family... Eddie Jordan (the Formula 1 boss), and daughter Miki. The show, I thought was a huge success with fabulous tailored jackets in pinstripe and tweed to sequin cocktail dresses and cargo trousers. Colours were muted and neutrals dominated the catwalk, but occasionally there would be a hint of blue, pink and purple. The collection can only be described as geek-gone-very-chic.
SALONI
Next on our agenda was Saloni's presentation, so Poppy and I hot footed it to The Saville Club where designer Saloni was showcasing her autumn collection. We were greeted by music played from a piano, as we made our way up a grand staircase to an exquisite ballroom. Front row this time was Josephine de La Baume who recently got engaged to DJ Mark Ronson, as was the lovely Divia Lalvani. The French opulence and romantic setting, set the mood perfectly as each model ascended the stairs in patterns that the designer herself describes as ‘capturing golden sunsets' evident from the orange and gold tones - the painterly patterns and colours could only have come from memories that inspired Saloni when living in India. Intricate fabric techniques and embroideries accentuate the brand's Indian roots. Top of my list however was the stunning long black Ines dress with its leather detail around the waist.
Watch our video of English shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood here.
SASS & BIDE
Sass & Bide was up next and as always the show and collection never fails to deliver. The music started and the colours paraded out on the runway as if we were suddenly transported to a Caribbean beach party. What particularly grabbed my attention was the large pieces of raffia, which were strapped around the neck or attached to a jacket. When one thinks of Sass & Bide you normally associate embellishment and structure, whereas this collection opted for a softer feel in draping and loose fitting. The warrior effect seen in last seasons collection, however, was still apparent: seen in the big corset belts made out of copper and shoulders covered in copper beads. Sitting next to me and Poppy in the front row was Chloe Green, daughter of Sir Philip Green (owner of Arcadia) and Lisa Snowdon, who equally thought the collection was one of the girls' best collection yet. Other attendees included Twiggy, Paloma Faith and Julia Roitfeld, who had just finished an advertisement for Lancome soon to have its screen debut in China.
Learn more about Australian designer Marc Newson's design philosophy here.
Saturday 19th February 2011
Read our interview with English designer Nicholas Kirkwood here.
It is quite impossible to write about Issa and not mention the blue dress that Kate Middleton wore for the engagement photo recently! However, Brazillian designer Daniella Issa Helayel did a complete 360 by getting Yasmin Le Bon and Andrea Dellal to walk in her show - thus proving that women of all ages can wear Issa. The inspiration of the show the "Ages of Women", it was also a show to celebrate the 10th anniversary of her eponymous label. "Celebrate" by Kool and the Gang blasted from the speakers as the models took to the runway. Short flirty skater dresses and swing coats will surely bring some new fans to the brand, whereas the loyal buyers will be happy to know that her iconic knotted jersey dresses are now available in new colours. Also seen on the runway were pheasant feather prints and cool grey tones with flashes of colour. Shoe queen Charlotte Dellal sat front row with her gang to support her mother Andrea who closed the show in a show stopping floor-length red dress.
Join us behind-the-scenes with former Issa consultant Victoria Tang here.
JOSEPH DINNER
After the Issa show it was onto the Joseph dinner where Sara Ferrero and Danilea Agnelli hosted an evening to welcome new chef Maria Elia. The Fashion crowd was at its best with the likes of Tamara Mellon, Olivia Palermo, Liberty Ross and Tom Dixon.
CLUB MONACO FOR BROWNS
Club Monaco launched its new collection for the first time in Europe at Browns in London on February 11, and in order to celebrate this occasion Lou Doillon, an ambassador for the brand, hosted a party at The Royal Academy of Arts. The fashion set sipped on Belvedere Elderflower and Rhubarb Martinis and were privy to the dulcet tones of up and coming British star Clare Maguire.
