Shili PatelHi RESShot by Tory Ho
Cover Shili Patel is on a mission to change the perception of Indianwear (Photo: Tory Ho/Tatler Hong Kong)

Shili Patel, who is behind contemporary fashion label JinaShili, has taken Indianwear to the runways of New York

Still reeling from her runway debut at the inaugural South Asian New York Fashion Week, which took place in autumn 2022, Shili Patel could never have imagined her designs taking her to an international stage. “It was an experience I will never forget,” says the Hong Kong- based designer, who is behind the contemporary fashion label JinaShili. “I was a ball of nerves throughout the whole process. It was my first show and something I’ve only ever dreamt about.”

The event on September 11 last year was a coup not just for Patel, but for the South Asian design community. Falling smack in the middle of New York Fashion Week’s buzzing schedule, it gave 15 designers a platform to showcase their heritage and craftsmanship on a world stage. Patel, whose designs caught the organisers’ eyes, showed 18 looks. “I wanted to present a collection that was true to myself and my aesthetic. My heart would skip a beat each time a model walked onto the ramp,” she says.

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Patel has been on a quest to bring Indian clothing to the world since founding her brand in 2015. Her ascent coincides with a shift in the narrative surrounding South Asian fashion today—famed Indian couturier Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s store opening in Manhattan in October, his first outside India, is testament to this. “There is something unique and decadent about the colours of Indian fabrics that make you feel so regal,” she says.

The designer, who uses patterns, colour and fabrics playfully, hopes her pieces will change her audience’s perception of what Indian clothing can be: modern, creative and comfortable to wear. Her design aesthetic fuses classical Indian silhouettes with a modern, sometimes even androgynous twist. Think versatile Indian blouses worn with jeans; jumpsuits; asymmetrical tops paired with flared Indian skirts; tailored suits or trousers with a skirt train.

JinaShili, a combination of Patel’s and her mother’s names, is a tribute to the woman, the designer says. The two know luxury well. Patel was born in Gujarat, India, and her parents—both hailing from a long line of diamond merchants—moved to Hong Kong when she was just a year old. “My fascination for clothes began at a very young age, when [during trips to India] I would go fabric shopping with my mother,” she says. “Indianwear was special as I didn’t get to wear it much in Hong Kong, so whenever I had a chance, I never missed the opportunity. [The markets] opened my eyes to the vast variety of fabrics, colours and embroidery available. I remember thinking to myself: ‘Wow, imagine if I could use these fabrics for a jacket or a jumpsuit’.”

Though Patel isn’t formally trained as a designer, she began designing as a hobby, working with tailors in Hong Kong and sourcing fabric from mainland China and India to craft unique designs. She would then wear her creations to events around town and gauge the public’s reaction. “It was sort of like a test, I guess. I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome. That boost of confidence was enough for me to get started [professionally],” she says.

JinaShili is currently available online and at Project Gaia boutique in New York. No longer a novice to international shows, Patel now has her sights set on selling her pieces at boutiques around the world. The brand is also teaming up with a company that specialises in augmented-reality body measurements to allow for virtual fittings for her international clients.

“I don’t consider JinaShili to be an Indian-only brand,” she says. “The aim has always been to be a multicultural brand. I want to bring out the individual [personalities of my customers] rather than follow trends.”

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