‘The White Lotus’ costume designer Alex Bovaird speaks to Tatler about the show's viral fashion moments

The brilliant woman behind 'The White Lotus’ cast's killer wardrobe—including Portia's fashion crisis—speaks to Tatler

The White Lotus opens its doors to new guests in its romantic branch in Sicily, Italy. In the first season, show creator Mike White spotlights money, while the topic of sexual politics is explored in Season 2, peppered with some steamy and riveting surprises.

The new season includes a gorgeous new ensemble—with Jennifer Coolidge reprising her role as billionaire heiress, Tanya—dressed in pretty exciting outfits.

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Apart from its Emmy Award-winning story and cast, the series has also drawn the interest of fans in costume design. It’s a sin to dismiss the remarkable work of costume designer Alex Bovaird, who has collaborated with White to make the wardrobe more vibrant and fun.

Above Photo: Mubi

“This season, we went to Italy and so there is a formality and flamboyance with which we approached the costumes,” says the designer. “Americans especially try to emulate some of the obviously more elegant [styles] of the Italians when they go on holiday there, and we wanted every character to have some Italian flavour baked into their clothes.”

Perhaps one of the most memorable looks from the show is Tanya’s printed pink dress teamed with a pink babushka scarf and sunglasses. It’s one of many other elegant and summery outfits that we definitely adore.

“Jennifer looks great in Dolce and Gabbana and they do femininity with class and sex appeal in just the right way for Tanya. We used a lot of Italian and European brands: Valentino, Bottega, Pucci, Gucci, Etro, Armani, Prada, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, and Paco Rabbane—but also tonnes of vintage pieces from stores from New York to Rome to Barcelona,” shares the designer.

Above Courtesy of HBO GO

Given that there weren’t many shops in Italy selling summer clothes in January and February while filming, Bovaird had to get a bit creative, which wasn’t much of a problem for the designer who enjoys playing with different styles. She notes that they combined designer brands with younger brands, creating a unique look that stays true to the character. She adds, “Everyone has a sexy moment or a costume or two where they really have their mojo”.

Above Courtesy of HBO GO

As for Portia (played by Haley Lu Richardson), Tanya’s Gen Z assistant isn’t quite sure which “direction to take”. This is Bovaird's take on the phrase “expressing yourself through fashion” with the help of Richardson’s generosity in lending her wardrobe.

She recalls, “I see a lot of girls [in Portia’s age] in LA who dress in different styles and fuse trends in a funny way that doesn’t always make sense. . .We used Haley’s bucket hat, her cut-off denim shorts and some safety pin earrings. . .Haley was very careful to make sure Portia didn’t come across as cool. [We] would often work together in her dressing room to try on the best accessories that would make the outfit a little off!”

The Internet immediately caught on. For a moment, the internet had come together to express their outrage for Portia’s fashion crisis.

Above Courtesy of HBO GO

Bovaird has done it once again.

It's one thing to go head-to-head with period or fantasy costuming, but it's another to be recognised for building a unique contemporary ensemble.

“The thing about contemporary costumes is that there are so many ways you can go to underwrite the characters and it’s sometimes hard to find your way through. Period films can have a prescribed direction since the way people dressed was dictated [by] the norms at the time. They have other challenges for sure, but creatively, I find the box a bit more straightforward,” she explains.

Above Courtesy of HBO GO

After receiving a Costume Designers Guild Awards (CDGA) nomination for Jordan Peele’s Nope, the designer was also nominated for "Excellence in Contemporary Television" for her work in The White Lotus: In the Sandbox.

“I think it’s great that costume designers are being recognised for their contribution to movies and TV and thus popular culture. I hope that they start to get pay equity and can explore other revenues open to more traditional designers,” the designer adds.

Bovaird's work making rounds on the internet is enough reason for costume designers to receive more than mere acknowledgement. With standout fashion moments to her name, Bovaird's recent nomination surely won't be the last.

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The White Lotus Costume designer Alex Bovaird

Tatler Asia

In conversation with ‘The White Lotus’ costume designer Alex Bovaird