Daniel Roseberry wanted to return to a certain form of purism with his Schiaparelli collection this season, beginning with simple-yet-dramatic shapes and a relatively restrained palette of white, black and gold. One of the most impressive numbers is a white draped column with a detachable cocooning piece and black train inspired by the ribbons on vintage Schiaparelli perfume bottles.
While he usually refrains from digging too deeply into Elsa Schiaparelli's archive for fear of overburdening his own creative vision, this season, he mined the house's surrealist jewellery which he used as a starting point to create intensely encrusted gowns.
He also took inspiration from Elsa Schiaparelli's original wooden mannequins, a girl and a boy "she loved so much she gave them a wedding ceremony," he says, to create anatomic bustiers in leather. Kim Kardashian was the first to wear a green rendition of this style for her Christmas party.
Elsewhere, Roseberry wanted to inject a cool-casualness to couture, continuing to innovate on materials by using a denim treatment over duchess satin to create a suede-like fabric, and designing exaggerated hoodies, pieces tailored to rockstars and discerning editors alike. "It's a privilege to make couture for people who make culture," he says.
A neck-to-toe embellished piece that is revealed to be made in a stretch-knit fabric understandably required the most extensive hours.
Roseberry recently made headlines for dressing Lady Gaga for the inauguration ceremony. Of the experience he said: "It was actually quite last minute and we didn't know if she would end up wearing it, but her team had asked for a gown and we originally wanted to make it all-white with a golden dove. It was Gaga who suggested to make it navy and red to give it a symbolic meaning which I thought was wonderful. When I saw some leaked pictures of her practicing on stage with the gown, I knew we had a high chance of her actually wearing it on the day and in the end she did, so we had this incredible thing to celebrate with the team along with this new collection."