All eyes were on Paul Andrew, the Italian house’s womenswear shoe designer who was promoted to creative director and debuted his first ready-to-wear collection this season. Andrew, whose new designs saw hints of gender-bending (Ferragamo’s menswear designer Guillaume Meilland showed a matching collection alongside him) drew inspiration from royalty, of both the British and Hollywood variety.

There were plenty of shirts and shirtdresses with stiff collars and tailored coats that paid homage to Katherine Hepburn’s style, as well as the jodhpur-under-riding boots look made famous by Princess Margaret from The Crown.

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Moncler might have just done the brand collaboration to end all brand collaborations, partnering with not one, not two, but eight leading designers to create eight capsule collections, named the Genius Group, to be rolled out every month.

This project includes Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, whose A-line capes and feminine skirts are quite distinctive of the fashion house. Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Hiroshi Fujiwara and Palm Angels similarly brought their own touch to the mix, creating pieces that will no doubt fly off shelves as soon as they drop.

As one of the great fashion houses known for their fur coats, Fendi’s Fall offering did not disappoint. Not only were there luxurious, patterned mink coats (some with the ever-popular double-F insignia), there were plaid patent trenches and statement capes all wrapped up with a touch of ‘40s flair. Boxy-shouldered jackets and bright thigh-high boots also gave a whiff of sci-fi sex-appeal.

See also: The Best Faux Fur Fashion Brands You Need To Know

Watching Alessandro Michele’s Fall show is akin to being in a psychedelic dream. Male and female models walked trance-like down the runway in a mish-mash of fabrics and accessories, some holding decapitated heads or live reptiles, and many wearing balaclavas.

He sought to blur the boundaries of gender and even culture, mixing Russian babushka scarves with a Japanese pagoda hat, or traditional English plaid with Persian paisley prints. Models were styled androgynously, some in revealing, slinky crystal tops, others wrapped in heavy layers of feather, tweed and all with a hint of cultural irreverence.

If a show wasn’t documented by a drone, did it really happen? Prada set its Fall show above a depth-illusion black mirror floor amongst neon Prada signs, opened by drones that flitting down the runway to capture the audience.

The clothes themselves gave off a dystopian vibe with plenty of nylon raincoats, fluorescent patterns, wet-market boots and sheaths of tulle. It made for a provoking collection, both visually and in thought, with Miuccia Prada herself claiming that she wanted the clothes to be a statement of exaggerated, almost violent freedom she hopes women can feel.

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