MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Models walk the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage )
Cover Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Models walk the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/Daniele Venturelli/WireImage )

2022 春夏米蘭時裝週盛大展開,由 Fendi 女裝創意總監 Kim Jones 打頭陣,本季是他上任後推出的第二個時裝系列,將帶領時尚迷回到復古且奢華的黃金年代。

毫無疑問的 Kim Jones 是當今最具話題性的設計師之一,自正式接手 Fendi 女裝後,多數人對於他會如何延續卡爾老佛爺(Karl Lagerfeld)的精神感到無比好奇。透過 2021 秋冬系列,可以發現他凸顯出女人獨有的韻味,富有歷練卻又不會流於老派,充滿極具吸引力的成熟魅力。然而相較於上一季採用低彩度的大地色系,日前發表的 2022 春夏女裝系列大秀,營造出五彩繽紛的視覺效果,以下整理出 3 大重點,一次搞懂 Kim Jones 葫蘆裡賣什麼藥!

延伸閱讀:CHANEL 2021 秋冬新包推薦:下半年必投資包款 Top 12

1. 重回懷舊的 Disco 年代

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Photo 1 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 2 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 3 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 4 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi

本季 Kim Jones 借鑒了已故時尚插畫家 Antonio Lopez 不受拘束的態度,他經常在 54 俱樂部(Studio 54)流連忘返,喜歡在舞池中發掘渾身散發著自信的女性,例如時尚巨星周天娜、時尚 icon Bianca Jagger、美國超模 Jerry Hall、非裔超模 Pat Cleveland、巨星 Grace Jones。Antonio Lopez 總是能夠注意到女人的多元面向,並將觀察到的精神藉由作品呈現出來。

2. 一分鐘認識「54 俱樂部」

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Celebrities during New Year's Eve party at Studio 54: (L-R) Halston, Bianca Jagger, Jack Haley, Jr. and wife Liza Minnelli and Andy Warhol.  (Photo by Robin Platzer/Twin Images/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images) liza minnelli;andy warhol;halston;jack jr. haley [& wife];mrs. mick jagger   contributor united states robin platzer
Above Photo by Robin Platzer/Twin Images/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images
Celebrities during New Year's Eve party at Studio 54: (L-R) Halston, Bianca Jagger, Jack Haley, Jr. and wife Liza Minnelli and Andy Warhol.  (Photo by Robin Platzer/Twin Images/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images) liza minnelli;andy warhol;halston;jack jr. haley [& wife];mrs. mick jagger   contributor united states robin platzer

「54 俱樂部」被封為 1970 年代紐約的傳奇夜店,舉凡藝術家 Andy Warhol、設計師 Tom Ford 都曾是這裡的常客。身為美國夜生活的經典代表,環境氛圍與風氣既奢靡又絢爛,吸引了所有名流會聚集於此,在裡頭玩耍的女性盡情打扮,不過她們只為了自己而造型,創造出最能夠代表自己的風格。

3. 時尚插畫家筆下的 Fendi 女人

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Photo 1 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 2 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 3 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 4 of 4 圖片來源/Fendi

Kim Jones 擅長從品牌 DNA 中汲取靈感,當他在翻閱 Fendi 典藏檔案之際,看見 Antonio Lopez 曾為 Fendi 手繪的品牌 Logo,進而開啟一場回憶錄。Antonio Lopez 在世時被喻為「時尚插畫界的畢卡索」,他的畫風華麗,以及善於使用不同材質媒介創作,締造難以取代的大膽美學。

他的畫作化身在嵌花皮革、精心設計的蕾絲,還有閃亮的緹花織物上,每一個插畫圖案都十分鮮明奪目,從服裝到配件皆營造出熱帶風情。

4. 經典包款大變身

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Photo 1 of 3 Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Photo 2 of 3 Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Photo 3 of 3 Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: A model, bag detail, walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: A model, bag detail, walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: A model, bag detail, walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)

說到 Fendi 最具標誌性的包款非 Peekaboo、Baguette 莫屬,繼上一季推出全新尺寸後,這回則是把包包打造成宛如藝術品的模樣,加入色彩繽紛的圖紋印花,呼應七零年代的前衛風格。

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Photo 1 of 2 Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
Photo 2 of 2 Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: A model, bag detail, walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)
MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: A model walks the runway at the Fendi fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week - Spring / Summer 2022 on September 22, 2021 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images)

除了招牌包款外,Kim Jones 入主後推出的全新 First 包也注入嶄新元素,使用亮面皮革和高飽和色彩的條紋設計,並且創作出全新腋下包款!

5. 辣妹子專屬的鞋款

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Photo 1 of 2 圖片來源/Fendi
Photo 2 of 2 圖片來源/Fendi

露趾涼鞋儼然是春夏必備單品,不過 Kim Jones 提供我們更多元化的選擇,擺脫既定印象中的夏日單品。舉凡毛絨絨細跟鞋、過膝長靴,這些都是許多人心中的冬季定番鞋履,卻通通出現在 2022 春夏女裝大秀上,散發著濃厚的性感韻味。

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