Cover Photo by Dior
當秀場的燈光亮起,牆上掛滿一幅幅用色大膽,充滿故事性的畫作,仔細一瞧,發現不是「畫」的,而是「刺繡」!印度的宗教與充滿靈性意涵的特殊文化,向來是刺激許多創意工作者靈感之地。而當地手工刺繡作品上的視覺震撼,同樣令Dior創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri十分著迷,她將高級訂製服的輪廓與色彩回歸到極簡的黑白色調,將刺繡工藝若有似無地融入衣料之中,彰顯圍繞於四周鮮豔用色的刺繡作品,更加強了整場的視覺張力,訴說著關於印度藝術底蘊的故事。

高級訂製工坊是所有腦內靈感與手工縫紉技藝取得平衡的寓所,是工具、也是風格實驗場,在卓越工藝與人文思想的交融薈萃之下,如心跳一般蓬勃地成長著,讓高級訂製服所展現的不僅是唯美,而是富有生命力地闡述著它的故事,這是Dior女裝創意總監Maria Grazia Chiuri所下的註解,將藉由她所創的高級訂製服系列,榮耀人類與手工藝品之間的關係,企圖消弭藝術與工藝間的差異,以身體為載體,工藝為媒介,實現藝術的至高理念。

 

延伸閱讀:Dior 2022早春系列:希臘女神改穿球鞋?8 大設計亮點搶先看

 

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Maria Grazia Chiuri別有用心,為了讓刺繡工藝跳脫原本只是衣飾上裝飾性的點綴,透過一連串審視連續性動作與行動間的編排,為其交織出更多面向的延展,揮灑刺繡工藝餘面料之中,讓每一塊面料可以完美貼合至消逝於無形,如系列中一件原色長裙,其細緻的刺繡一路蔓生至上身輕盈清透的烏干紗襯衫中,完美融入於面料之中,不突兀、也不多餘、不喧賓奪主,保有刺繡的立體質感,與霓裳巧妙地融為一體,這絕對是刺繡工藝的極致展演。

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Above Photo by Dior
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Photo 1 of 7 DIOR_HAUTE_COUTURE_SS22_FIRSTLOOK©MorganODonovan
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自2021/22的秋冬高訂系列,Maria Grazia Chiuri因曾受到印度刺繡的視覺震撼,因此本季度又再更深入著墨印度文化,探索藝術與工藝之間交會的維度,因而產生了對工藝概念提出了詰問,在探索答案的過程中,找到一對夫妻藝術家Madhvi與Maru Parekh,進行了一場法國老牌時裝屋與印度藝術之間的創意對話。夫妻倆不同的藝術風格,藉由心靈上的交流與契合,針對印度傳統、神祇力量象徵與靈性意涵進行一連串的詰問,陌生卻又熟悉、現實與超現實,構築出一個介於虛實之間的超現實世界。

 

延伸閱讀:別只看 Jisoo!Dior 2022 春夏女裝 5 大流行趨勢解析

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Madhvi Parekh從未接受過正規的藝術教育,但經過五十餘年不間斷的藝術創作歷程,淬鍊出一種充滿活力的動態藝術美學。她成長於印度西部的小村莊,從小接受豐富的大自然環境薰陶,加上附近的宏偉寺廟建築與民俗流動劇場的陶冶,對她未來的藝術創作之路影響深遠。1958年時,她與畫家先生Manu Parekh締結連理,開啟了她的藝術教育與職業生涯,從幾何圖形開始,逐漸發展出人物圖像的抽象藝術創作宇宙。她的繪畫栩栩如生、自由奔放,描繪出史詩、民間傳說或田園牧歌的奇幻世界,村莊神靈、森林、動物、兒童都在她的畫筆下展現豐沛的生命力。

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Above Madhvi Parekh

而她的先生Manu Parekh是來自印度的現代藝術家,也是身為印度最具創造力的藝術家之一。他的藝術帶領觀者穿越心靈層面與抽象精神,直面審視自我內心深處,從多元層面釋放藝術才華,成就出一系列不朽的經典之作。在取得了孟買Sir JJ School of Art的文憑後,接續在印度及海外舉辦個展並參與多項團體藝術展出。兼任加爾各答當代藝術家協會、新德里總理事會及新德里諮詢委員會成員的他,偕同妻子,對於推廣印度民間藝術不遺餘力,並堅持不懈地貢獻。而兩人的藝術風格在互補與互相滋養之下,層次日漸昇華,為作品注入全然不同的能量。

Tatler Asia
Above Manu Parekh

大秀會場便是以這兩位藝術家的作品覆蓋了整個牆面,整場大秀宛如這對夫妻的藝術回顧展,現在他們的藝術世界,將交由Chanakya刺繡工坊以具體方式重新演繹於Dior華美的高級訂製服上,透過手工藝的展現讓刺繡更活靈活現地呈現於世人,在這場工坊、藝術家與服裝設計師之間的宏觀對話之中,讓大家看見印度藝術洋溢著生命力的文化之美。

 

Tatler Asia
Above DIOR_HC_22_SAVOIRFAIRE_SCENOGRAPHY_©Prarthna_Singh
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除了大秀上合作的藝術家以外,本次觀秀的的賓客名單清一色都是女性,不過卻是能展現女性之力的超強名單。其中有全球首富Ilon Musk馬斯克的媽媽Maye Musk、LVMH集團太子妃Natalia Vodianova、部落客始祖Chiara Ferragni、《控制》蘿莎蒙派克、英國皇室後代Amelia Windsor、傳奇法國演員Isabelle Adjani、時裝與旅遊顧問斜槓企業家Sofia Sanchez de Betak等人,在在傳遞著Maria Grazia Chiuri向來堅持的「女性力量」議題。

 

延伸閱讀:回顧迪奧先生創造出《New Look》75週年!Kim Jones邀集品牌好友《艾蜜莉》Lucien Laviscount與新版《Gossip Girl》Thomas Doherty,一同參與Dior Men 2022秋冬男裝盛事

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Photo 1 of 19 Maye Musk(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 2 of 19 Chiara Ferragni (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 3 of 19 Rosamund Pike attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 4 of 19 Claire Foy (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 5 of 19 Isabelle Adjani (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 6 of 19 Beatrice Borromeo (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 7 of 19 Nadia Tereszkiewicz (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 8 of 19 Cleopatra Zu Oettingen-Spielberg (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 9 of 19 Madelaine Petsch(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 10 of 19 Camille Rowe (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 11 of 19 Karen Wazen (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 12 of 19 Sofia Sanchez De Betak (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 13 of 19 Nadia Fares and a guest(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 14 of 19 Stella Del Carmen(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 15 of 19 Cara Delevingne (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 16 of 19 Natalia Vodianova(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 17 of 19 Heart Evangelista(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 18 of 19 Amelia Windsor(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
Photo 19 of 19 Lena Mahfouf(Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Maye Musk attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Chiara Ferragni attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Rosamund Pike attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Claire Foy attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Isabelle Adjani attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Beatrice Borromeo attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Nadia Tereszkiewicz attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Cleopatra Zu Oettingen-Spielberg attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Madelaine Petsch attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Camille Rowe attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Karen Wazen attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Sofia Sanchez De Betak attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Nadia Fares and a guest attend the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Stella Del Carmen attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Cara Delevingne attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Natalia Vodianova attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Heart Evangelista attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Amelia Windsor attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)
PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: Lena Mahfouf attends the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images For Dior)

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