The fashion world’s musical chairs: Who’s in and who’s out at major luxury brands

Last year, Louise Trotter departed French heritage brand Carven after just three seasons (she was appointed creative director in 2023) to take the helm at Bottega Veneta. Hours later, Matthieu Blazy was confirmed as the new artistic director of Chanel, one of the most lauded roles in the industry.

John Galliano similarly bid farewell to Maison Margiela after nearly a decade at the helm. His avant-garde approach and ability to reimagine the house’s deconstructionist ethos brought renewed attention and acclaim to Margiela.

After much speculation over Galliano’s successor, Belgian designer Glenn Martens was announced as Maison Margiela’s new creative director this month. Martens is renowned for his innovative work at Y/Project, which shuttered this year, and Diesel. 

In spite of these buzzy creative overhauls, the designer reshuffling in high fashion seems far from over. Read on to discover all the transformative shifts and departures that took place, and the fresh waves of artistry esteemed fashion houses will welcome with fresh appointments for the upcoming seasons.

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Early in March, Loewe announced the departure of Jonathan Anderson, who has served as the maison’s creative director since 2013. Over the past 11 years, Anderson has played a pivotal role in redefining the brand’s identity, transforming Loewe into one of the most forward-thinking luxury houses while remaining deeply rooted in craft and heritage.

His tenure brought about numerous signature designs, including the now-iconic Puzzle bag, which celebrates its tenth anniversary this year. Beyond fashion, Anderson championed the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, a platform dedicated to preserving and celebrating artisanal excellence worldwide.

Reflecting on his time at the house, Anderson expressed gratitude for the creative freedom he was given, stating: “While my chapter draws to a close, Loewe’s story will continue for many years to come, and I will look on with pride, watching it continue to grow, the amazing Spanish brand I once called home.”

In April, Dior named Anderson as its new artistic director of menswear. The appointment marks a new direction for the house’s menswear division, one that places Anderson’s precise, curious design voice at the centre of one of fashion’s most commercially successful luxury labels. His debut collection is slated to show at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris this June.

The duo, best known for founding Proenza Schouler, will take full creative responsibility for womenswear, menswear, leather goods, and accessories at Loewe starting April 7, 2025.

Donatella Versace has stepped down as chief creative officer of Versace after nearly three decades at the helm. She will transition to the role of chief brand ambassador, marking the first time in the brand’s history that a Versace family member will not oversee its creative direction. “It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry on my brother Gianni’s legacy. He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity.”

In her new role, Donatella will dedicate herself to spearheading Versace’s philanthropic and charitable endeavours.

Dario Vitale has been appointed as Donatella’s successor. Vitale brings a wealth of experience from his tenure at Miu Miu, where he played a pivotal role in the brand’s transformation. Vitale is tasked to channel that expertise in steering Versace while honouring its rich heritage.

Gucci has announced the departure of creative director Sabato De Sarno after a tenure of less than two years. De Sarno, who took over from Alessandro Michele in 2023, aimed to revitalise the brand’s image through a refined focus on universal and iconic house codes.

The maison’s fall fashion show in Milan this February was presented by the Gucci design office.

In a strategic move by Kering, Demna has been appointed the new artistic director of Gucci, effective July 2025. The Georgian designer and co-founder of design collective Vetements is renowned for his transformative work at Balenciaga, where he had served as artistic director since 2015. Chairman and chief executive officer of Kering François-Henri Pinault shared in a statement: “Demna’s contribution to the industry, to Balenciaga, and to the Group’s success has been tremendous. His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs.”

Jil Sander and OTB Group have announced the appointment of Simone Bellotti as the brand’s new creative director, effective immediately.

Bellotti steps into the role bringing extensive industry experience and a deeply refined aesthetic. He previously served as creative director at Bally, where he introduced a fresh artistic perspective. His stellar resume also includes tenures at A.F. Vandervorst, Gianfranco Ferré, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and an influential 16-year period at Gucci, where he honed his skill for merging archival references with contemporary innovation.

Jones, who recently received the Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur in Paris—France’s highest civilian decoration—had been instrumental in translating the maison’s iconic codes and sensibilities into contemporary menswear.

Martens’s appointment is anticipated to infuse fresh energy into the brand with his proven couture capabilities, while honouring Maison Margiela’s avant-garde heritage. He will remain creative director at Diesel concurrently. 

On December 12, 2024, Chanel announced the appointment of Blazy as its new artistic director, succeeding Virginie Viard, who departed in June. Blazy previously revitalised Bottega Veneta with his innovative and nuanced designs, introducing the maison’s signature Intrecciato bags Kalimero and Andiamo. His impressive resume includes notable tenures at Raf Simons, Maison Margiela, and Celine. Blazy is set to begin his role as Chanel’s fourth official creative director in early 2025, and will show his first collection in October.

Alessandro Michele, who departed from Gucci in 2022, has taken the helm as creative director at Valentino. Michele’s eclectic and romantic design philosophy melds beautifully with Valentino’s traditional house codes, as seen in his surprise debut collection for the maison on the last day of Milan Fashion Week 2024. His appointment at Valentino is anticipated to further infuse the brand with a fresh, avant-garde perspective.

In October 2024, Celine announced the appointment of Michael Rider as its new creative director, succeeding Hedi Slimane. Rider previously served as design director at Celine under Phoebe Philo from 2008 to 2018, contributing significantly to the brand’s minimalist aesthetic. He later joined Ralph Lauren. Rider’s return to Celine is anticipated to showcase his deep understanding of the brand’s heritage with a contemporary vision.

Sarah Burton has been named the new creative director of Givenchy, with her first collection slated for March 2025. Burton, renowned for her transformative work at Alexander McQueen—including the design of Kate Middleton’s wedding dress—brings a wealth of experience and a unique sensibility to Givenchy. Her appointment follows the departure of Matthew Williams in December 2023 and marks a significant addition to the representation of female creative directors in major luxury fashion houses.

Italian luxury house Bottega Veneta has appointed Louise Trotter as creative director, effective January 2025. Trotter, formerly at Carven and the first female creative director of Lacoste, is recognised for her practical yet beautiful designs. Her leadership is anticipated to usher in a new era for Bottega Veneta, building upon its legacy of craftsmanship and innovation.

Haider Ackermann has been tapped as new creative director of Tom Ford. Ackermann, known for his elegant and fluid designs at his eponymous label and Berluti, brings a refined aesthetic that aligns with Tom Ford’s sophisticated brand identity. He also serves as creative director of luxury winter brand Canada Goose.

Julian Klausner has been promoted to creative director at Dries Van Noten, following the founder’s retirement from the role. Klausner, a member of the Dries Van Noten design team since 2018, is expected to maintain the brand’s distinctive aesthetic with his deep understanding of its identity while introducing his unique vision.

Clare Waight Keller, formerly of Givenchy and Chloé, joins Uniqlo as its new creative director. Waight Keller is celebrated for her modern and feminine designs, including Meghan Markle’s wedding dress. Her wealth of experience in luxury fashion will bring a lifted perspective to Uniqlo, blending high fashion sensibilities with accessible design and enhancing the brand’s global appeal.

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