Cover Sequin embroidered silk dress, and jersey bra and panties, all by Louis Vuitton
Sequin embroidered silk dress, and jersey bra and panties, all by Louis Vuitton
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The Louis Vuitton spring-summer 2022 collection is an ode to the maison’s transformation through time
Only Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton artistic director for womenswear, can weave together the concept of time and transformation, with such mastery and ingenuity while highlighting the iconic pieces from the past, for the launch of the spring-summer women’s collection on October 5, 2021.
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It began with a premise inspired by his participation in the upcoming HBO series Irma Vep as the show’s costume designer. Ghesquière created pieces while reimagining the 1920s vampire who travels through time and adapts to the fashion of every era. “There are some incredible images in that early 20th century series. One of which is a grand ball,” he said.
Above Mohair and nylon tailcoat, cotton poplin top, cotton bermuda pants, and ankle boots in patent calf leather, all by Louis Vuitton
Mohair and nylon tailcoat, cotton poplin top, cotton bermuda pants, and ankle boots in patent calf leather, all by Louis Vuitton
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“As my inspirations progressed, I kept moving towards the ball and the phantasmagoria it implies,” added the artistic director. “The ceremonial aspect, the intrigue, the sidelong glances, the whispering, the sensual infatuation. Desire and protocol, and the tension that arises from those opposing forces. . . And the mystery of the night, of course, which transforms everything and creates a world of illusion where we try to hold back time and dread the break of day.”
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To completely set the scene, the ensemble was revealed at the spring-summer women’s fashion show as models in striking façades walked through a dark passageway known as Passage Richelieu, located between the Rue de Rivoli and the Louvre Museum, which was illuminated with oldfangled chandeliers.
Cotton blend embroidered dress
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“I wanted to situate this ready-to-wear collection at the threshold of couture. It is an unabashed luxury that demonstrates the opulence of luxury, its value,” he related. “Here, it’s about the pure excellence of various specialised crafts, in the classic vein—in the trims, incrustations and embroideries. We also found a stock of 19th-century beads that we used on the first looks, dresses whose embroideries echo techniques from the 1920s.”
A fusion of shapes and silhouettes make up the collection, which are crafted using classic materials such as cotton, linen and charmeuse—a brilliant way of highlighting the collection’s theme.
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Ghesquière created pieces while reimagining the 1920s vampire who travels through time and adapts to the fashion of every era
True to its concept, there are also a couple of pieces that can be transformed and worn in two ways. “So, there are the Ellipse dresses, long lingerie-type dresses that become a tailcoat and a pleated skirt that can be transformed into a cape,” Ghesquière shared.
The designer also interpreted Louis Vuitton’s “coming-of-age story” in honour of the fashion house’s 200th anniversary by putting together an ensemble using pieces taken from the Nineties which continue to be modified to this day.
“In this trunk, we brought together a dress from the 1920s, jeans from the 1990s and a blouse with polka dots from the 1980s, for example,” he said. Ghesquière’s revival is also a form of recognition for the previous garments. As he believes that “time goes by, and clothes evolve. Along with the sentimental value they accumulate”.
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Credits
Photography: Carlijn Jacobs
Styling: Marie-Amélie Sauvé
Model: Jade Nguyen
Model: Ida Heiner
Model: Omowunmi Shodeko
Model: Raelynn Bumgardner
Topics
Christine Andas is a features writer and the style lead of Tatler Philippines. She mostly covers style-related content but enjoys writing about space, sneakers, and her favourite stars. She acquired a master's degree in Creative Writing at the University of Santo Tomas and has written young adult short stories which can be read online.
