Step Inside A Chanel Métiers D'Art, Where Haute Couture Magic Happens

Every year, Chanel’s Métiers d'Art collection showcases the skillset of the small specialised ateliers under its subsidiary, Paraffection. Their craft is largely done by hand, using age-old techniques of a different era. We explore five of these ateliers and discover the story behind each one.

Goossens

Founded in: 1950 by Robert Goossens

Joined Chanel’s portfolio in: 2005

They make: jewellery and ornaments

Did you know? Son and heir to the atelier, Patrick Goossens describes the very first collaboration between Gabrielle Chanel and his father Robert in 1953 as the beginning of costume jewellery. Completely unheard of at that time, they designed the jewellery with the clothes (and models) in mind, with both precious and non-precious metals, as well as enamel that still often used in Chanel's costume jewellery today.

Lemarié

Founded in: 1880 by Palmyre Coyette

Joined Chanel’s portfolio in: 1996

They make: Feather appliques and fabric flowers. Fun fact: they craft over 40,000 fabric flowers every year.

Did you know? In the 1960s, a small independent atelier named Lemarié created a fabric camellia for Gabrielle Chanel. Since then, Lemarié craftsmen and women have been hand-crafting the maison’s iconic 16-petal blooms to this very day, where the flower has been reinterpreted by Karl Lagerfeld in a multitude of fabrics, from tweed to silk to leather.

Lesage

Founded in: 1924

Joined Chanel in: 2002

They make: couture embroidery

Did you know? Lesage has the largest archive of couture embroidery in the world: a mind-boggling 75,000 samples… and counting. Now imagine its mammoth library of embroidery supplies, consisting of everything from tassels to crystals and cabochons; over 30 kilograms of beads and 100 million sequins are used by its craftsmen annually.

Maison Michel

Founded in: 1936

Joined Chanel in: 1996

They make: hats and headpieces

Did you know? In 2006, head of jewellery and accessories at Chanel (and well-known ultra-chic French girl) Laetitia Crahay was appointed as the artistic director of Maison Michel. She started the brand’s eponymous ready-to-wear line, and was the brains behind its now iconic-headpiece: the Heidi lace rabbit veiled headband. She left both positions in 2015 and is currently head designer of costume jewellery at Saint Laurent with Anthony Vaccarello.

Massaro

Founded in: 1894

Joined Chanel in: 2002

They make: Shoes

Did you know? In 1957, Raymond Massaro (grandson of the founder) collaborated with Gabrielle Chanel on its most iconic shoe: the beige sandal with a black satin tip. The artisans' techniques have not changed since 1894, where a shoe can take 40 hours of craftsmanship.

Topics

chanel métiers d'art haute couture paraffection ateliers