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原來Chanel經典斜紋軟呢的「Tweed」，其命名由來就是位於蘇格蘭的特威德河（River Tweed），也正是這塊具有萬種風情面料的誕生之地。蘇格蘭的好山好水，瀰漫魔幻感的自然色彩，為斜紋軟呢渲染著迷人的色彩。而這一次，Chanel藝術總監Virginie Viard則是以完整系列的斜紋軟呢協奏曲，演奏著蘇格蘭壯麗的節奏與色彩，向品牌經典元素致敬！
香奈兒女士與西敏公爵的戀情，是她這輩子最備受寵愛的一段深戀，她經常背著西敏公爵至蘇格蘭旅行，漫步在特威德河畔欣賞著沿途的自然美景，當天氣冷時，西敏公爵為她穿上一件外套，也使她發現了斜紋軟呢這塊面料將會有無限開發的可能性，雖然在當時是專門使用於男裝剪裁用途，不過她愛上了這塊面料之後，便創造出第一套專屬女性的斜紋軟呢套裝「Tweed Jacket」，此舉也打破了男裝與女裝的框架，解放了女性衣著的限制。「沒有比穿上愛人的衣服更性感的事了！」Virginie Viard揣測著香奈兒女士的心，「當然，如此擁抱當下的舉措不分年代且令我醉心，而正是香奈兒品牌賦予斜紋軟呢女性魅力的詮釋新生。」
Above Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster (1879 - 1953) at Chester Races with French fashion designer Coco Chanel (1883 - 1971), 1st May 1924. (Photo by Phillips/Topical Press Agency/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Above On right, Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965) accompanied by his son Randolph (1911 - 1968) and Coco Chanel (1883 - 1971) at a meet of the Duke of Westminster's boar hounds, the 'Mimizan Hunt' near Dampierre, northern France. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
Hugh Grosvenor, 2nd Duke of Westminster (1879 - 1953) at Chester Races with French fashion designer Coco Chanel (1883 - 1971), 1st May 1924. (Photo by Phillips/Topical Press Agency/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
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以大自然色調渲染各種色調的斜紋軟呢
有別於斜紋軟呢套裝給人老氣的印象，這一季Virginie Viard採用了她在蘇格蘭的美景中所見的各種色彩：粉紅色花朵配青葉綠、紫色薰衣草與湖水藍、原木色與蔓延的酒紅色苔蘚….各種超現實的奇幻色調一一在斜紋軟呢上重現，彷彿身歷其境一般感受到特威德河的景象，活潑清新的色調充滿青春洋溢的氣息，長版外套當成洋裝穿、短版外套搭配迷你裙，抑或搭配上皮褲展現英式搖滾的率性感，再換上一雙符合當地氣候的雨靴，光滑的材質仿造葉片的光澤感，從過膝、長靴到短靴各種選擇，就像是踏上泥濘的草地般的真實感受，一面模擬出香奈兒女士漫步河畔的歡愉心情。
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香奈兒女士以男裝剪裁突破女性衣著
香奈兒女士穿著西敏公爵的外套時，除了注意到斜紋軟呢面料以外，還深入摸索了男用外套的輪廓，從長版大衣、獵裝夾克、短版外套等多樣化的男用外套剪裁，香奈兒女士以女性的腰身線條重新演繹出充滿女人味的外套與套裝，這段愛情故事也啟發了Virginie Viard的設計靈感，在斜紋軟呢上注入俏皮的男孩子氣，因此可以看到本季Chanel秀場上，未曾缺席的經典黑白與米色仍在，只是多了粉紅、粉藍、楓橘、梅紫、蕨綠等令人目選神迷的鮮豔色彩，形繪出深植於她腦海中的蘇格蘭河岸緊緻，與香奈兒女士與西敏公爵肩並肩在河邊散步的浪漫情景。斜紋軟呢能體現色彩與材質的華麗交融，變化組合潛力無窮，因此能成為香奈兒永恆傳承的風格符碼，Virginie Viard說：「我對斜紋軟呢情有獨鍾，它是我構思香奈兒作品不可或缺的元素。」
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以英倫搖滾的精神貫穿
「創作時我同時也聯想到 1960年代英倫風情與那些鮮豔多彩的唱片封面。」身為一個搖滾迷的Virginie Viard，這一季仍以搖滾叛逆精神貫穿整季，將斜紋軟呢外套搭配上光澤感強烈的黑色絲絨長褲，或是將緊身裙搭配踩腳長襪；漆皮或編織羊毛材質拼接的迷你細跟尖頭鞋，以及黑色與米色橡膠材質的過膝長靴，如實令人回到60年代時普普風盛行的年代，當時青年震盪風潮下所帶動的衣著風氣，讓當代的時髦女子形象完美再現。
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斜紋軟呢包款多樣化輩出
不僅僅是外套出現了豐富色彩，包款更是各種斜紋軟呢爭妍鬥豔之地，玩味多重色彩組合的斜紋軟呢面料、不同色彩與格紋的拼接，抑或搭配亮片刺繡，包上扣環與Logo更是大玩色彩點綴的重點之一，小至愛心迷你小廢包、斜側背包、肩背包、Hobo包到大型托特包，所有能想得到的都換上一身斜紋軟呢冬裝，色彩繽紛宛如百花齊放，猶如看見了一整片蘇格蘭的花園森林，這麼美麗又充滿奇幻感的配色，勢必要收藏！
Above PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
Above PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
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Above PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
Above PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
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Above PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
Above PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, bag detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images)
PARIS, FRANCE - MARCH 08: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model, fashion detail, walks the runway during the Chanel Womenswear Fall/Winter 2022-2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on March 08, 2022 in Paris, France. (Photo by Dominique Charriau/WireImage)
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