The heritage of tailoring at Cao Minh

LC: Another extraordinary client is Mr. Gian Tu Trung, who has commissioned the same style of outfit from us for 20 years, regardless of the event or occasion. This outfit was even approved for a meeting with the Prime Minister, despite formal protocol requiring dark-coloured suits.

Designing this outfit was a lengthy two-way process, as it needed to be versatile enough to suit all occasions and allow him to connect with people from all walks of life. Striking that balance was no easy task. After extensive discussions and trials, we settled on a design that was neither a traditional suit nor a standard shirt, yet it perfectly suited him and was ultimately accepted as appropriate formalwear.

NMN: Crafting a bespoke outfit is about creating a signature look for the wearer—not for Cao Minh. This philosophy has been the foundation of our success to this day.

Cao Minh Tailor has served renowned figures such as General Vo Nguyen Giap and numerous politicians. Could you tell us more about Cao Minh’s clientele? Has this evolved over the years, particularly as the brand has transitioned into a luxury fashion house?

NMN: In the early days, suits in Vietnam were primarily worn by the French colonial elite, and the first tailors were French. Mr. Ly Minh trained in one of these establishments, which is why you can see a distinct French influence in Cao Minh’s approach—more liberal, comfortable, and effortlessly elegant.

At that time, suits were reserved for the upper echelons of society, including government officials and their families. However, as time passed, demand expanded. While suits were once predominantly worn by men in their forties and fifties, today we see clients as young as 18 or 19 embracing tailored pieces. Their needs are different, and as a brand, we have adapted to meet those evolving preferences.

How did Cao Minh evolve from a high-end tailor to a luxury fashion house? What challenges did the business face along the way?

NMN: When people think of tailoring, they typically associate it with suits. However, as I mentioned earlier, our conversations with clients go beyond a single garment. We work closely with them to understand their lifestyles and wardrobes holistically, creating pieces that cater to their personal needs.

Over the years, this process led us to develop curated collections for individual clients. From there, the natural progression was to translate this bespoke approach into collections that could serve a wider audience. What we are developing now is a response to real customer demand, paired with decades of craftsmanship and expertise.

How are new generations of tailors selected and trained at Cao Minh?

LC: Our in-house workshop currently employs 50 tailors, excluding external staff, across our two boutiques. Some of our master tailors have been with us since my father, Mr. Ly Minh, first established Cao Minh. Many of them began their careers at 17 or 18 and are now the seasoned artisans guiding the next generation.

We continue to pass down this craftsmanship, with some tailors introducing their children to the trade, while others apply independently. Regardless of their background, every tailor undergoes a rigorous training programme at Cao Minh. Learning to craft a suit can take up to a year, while mastering a shirt requires three to six months, depending on the individual’s aptitude.

NMN: Typically, each tailor works on a single piece from start to finish. However, when time constraints arise, a team of three or four may collaborate on a garment. This approach distinguishes Cao Minh from traditional tailoring houses, as we prioritise consistency in quality over reliance on a single artisan’s skill.

You once shared that the Covid-19 pandemic introduced many new clients to Cao Minh, as travel restrictions prevented people from flying to France and Italy to commission bespoke suits. When they turned to Cao Minh, they discovered that Vietnam had a tailoring house capable of delivering the same exacting standards of craftsmanship. The past few years have also witnessed the rise of Quiet Luxury, a movement that sees people shifting their focus away from fleeting trends and back to the essence of fashion - quality, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance. Do you believe we are entering a golden era for bespoke tailoring and impeccably crafted wardrobes in Vietnam?

NMN: I would add that since the pandemic, we have welcomed a new generation of younger clients—the children of Cao Minh’s long-standing patrons. Previously, they gravitated towards ready-to-wear from renowned international brands. However, when international travel was no longer an option, they sought out Vietnamese alternatives and, in doing so, discovered Cao Minh. Many of them have remained with us ever since.

In my view, there will always be a place for bespoke tailoring. The question is not whether there is demand but rather how many skilled artisans remain capable of serving this clientele. Every era has its elite, and Vietnam is an exceptionally promising market. It is the fastest-growing economy in the region, with an expanding affluent class that increasingly values personalised luxury. That is why we continue to develop two product lines: one catering to essential tailoring needs and another for clients seeking the highest level of craftsmanship.

“Vietnamising European tailoring is at the heart of Cao Minh’s mission. It is what gives the brand its irreplaceable value.” How is Cao Minh achieving this today?

NMN: Clothing reflects the culture and lifestyle of its wearer. Just as suits from England, France, and Italy each have their own distinct characteristics, so too must Vietnam’s tailoring evolve to reflect our identity.

Vietnamising suits means adjusting proportions to complement the Vietnamese physique while sourcing fabrics suited to our climate. We have even restructured the inner workings of our suits to ensure they remain soft, breathable, and comfortable, allowing for natural movement without rigidity. Many of the fabrics we use cannot be found anywhere else—they are the result of extensive research, custom orders, or the discovery of rare textiles and accessories. This is only possible because we have the experience, in-house production capabilities, and a deep understanding of our clients’ desires.

Cao Minh Tailoring House has now entered its third generation, with you, Nicolas, and Ms. Ly Nhi, at the helm. What plans are in place to ensure its longevity for the fourth, fifth generation, and beyond?

LC: That is, of course, our wish, but we must also respect the aspirations of the next generation. There must be a gradual transition, just as my father guided me. When I was younger, I resented tailoring because I saw how difficult it was. However, through my father’s careful mentorship, I gained invaluable knowledge—and in time, I came to love it.

Ly Nhi: Cao Minh is neither the oldest nor the largest tailoring house in Vietnam. There were brands established before us, but many have faded away. The fourth generation of our family has shown some interest in the craft, but only time will tell whether they will take up the mantle.

At the core of Cao Minh is the atelier, the workshop. My father has developed our production system in such a way that future generations, should they choose to continue, will not face the same grueling challenges as those before them. My father often says that to enjoy a truly exceptional bowl of pho, one does not need to be a chef—one simply needs to know what makes pho exceptional and have the wisdom to seek the right artisans to bring it to life.

Cao Minh is that foundation. Whether or not the next generation takes over, the name Cao Minh will endure on that legacy.

Article published from the original print edition of Tatler Vietnam, October 2024 – Family & Legacy

READ MORE

Dang Thai Son: ‘People are only silent when music Speaks’

Fashionista Quynh Anh Shyn: Discovering your potential through fashion

Director Tran Thanh: ‘Maintaining innocence in art is difficult’