American designer Daniel Roseberry was appointed Artistic Director of Schiaparelli in April this year. The designer had previously spent a decade working alongside Thom Browne and seemed a fitting candidate for the fashion house founded by Elsa Schiaparelli, which is rooted in the avant-garde and surrealist art. Roseberry opted for a more performative show for his debut collection, as he sat on a desk on the stage, sketching—depicting the starting point of each of his creations.
Roseberry also boldly avoided the obvious references to Schiaparelli’s designs (think: the lobster dress, hot pink and hands), and instead, injected a sense of the unexpected to the line with a "brain hat" by milliner Stephen Jones to deconstructed taioring, and acrylic nails and rhinestone fringes to a cage skirt with a matching headpiece.
There was also no shortage of party-ready frocks in a multitude of colours, some with floor-grazing bell sleeves, sweeping trains and even complimenting hairpieces.