Another Japanese designer that Talley pushed for in Vogue was Yohji Yamamoto. He debuted in Tokyo in 1977, Paris in 1981 and New York in 1982, showing collections that focused on neutral colours, draping and androgynous silhouettes. These elements are still core to the brand’s identity today.

This style was one that Talley himself adored and often wore in his later years, and Yamamoto’s unique approach to fashion was why he felt strongly about including him in Vogue. It would eventually spark a working friendship strong enough that Talley even made a cameo on the catwalk during Yamamoto's spring-summer 1999 collection. 

Issey Miyake made a name for himself by cleverly incorporating technology in his designs. He’s best known for his immediately recognisable Pleats Please fabric, but he also drew interest from the tech crowd, specifically Apple co-founder Steve Jobs who’s uniform included Miyake’s black turtleneck. 

At the helm of creative direction at Vogue, Talley sought to feature innovative fashions, and Miyake more than fit the bill with his structured yet feminine silhouettes. Being supported by Talley in the ’90s ensured that the Japanese designer would become an international household name, even today.

Kansai Yamamoto, famed for his excessive and maximalist style, was at his height of his fashion game during the ’70s and ’80s—Talley was on the rise during this time, and was definitely aware of Yamamoto’s work.

Having famously collaborated with David Bowie on his Ziggy Stardust and Aladdin Sane characters, Yamamoto created some of the most avant-garde costumes and looks at the time, which included knitted playsuits, fringed sleeves and sculptural trousers. Talley, who was a fan of Bowie's daring style and felt he was a “master in collaborating with genius fashion giants”, would, of course, want to continue championing Yamamoto’s wild creativity.

The rapid interest surrounding Jason Wu in 2008 was largely due to Talley—although the Taiwanese designer interned at Narciso Rodriguez in 2005, ambitiously started his own line the year after, and was already selling clothes by 2007, it was Talley introducing Wu to Michelle Obama which kept his brand firmly in the spotlight.

Wu and Obama collaborated on a number of looks, and she’d worn many of his dresses prior to the Presidential election. It was her one-shoulder inaugural gown that left a lasting impression on the public, and Talley’s hand in their meeting ensured that Wu would be influencing American designs for the next decade.

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