SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA - MAY 16: Blake Lee, Dakota Johnson, Marco Bizzarri, IU and Alia Bhatt attend the Gucci Seoul Cruise 2024 fashion show at Gyeongbokgung Palace on May 16, 2023 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by Justin Shin/Getty Images for Gucci)
Cover 中間為 Gucci 品牌首席執行官 Marco Bizzarri (Photo by Justin Shin/Getty Images for Gucci)
SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA - MAY 16: Blake Lee, Dakota Johnson, Marco Bizzarri, IU and Alia Bhatt attend the Gucci Seoul Cruise 2024 fashion show at Gyeongbokgung Palace on May 16, 2023 in Seoul, South Korea. (Photo by Justin Shin/Getty Images for Gucci)

截至今年6月30日上半年內,開雲集團銷售額同比僅增長了2%來到101.35億歐元,營業利潤減少3%,淨利潤跌至9.5%,與最近人事動盪變化和業績疲軟的 Gucci 有著主要關聯!開雲集團於7月27號表示將以 17 億歐元收購意大利時裝品牌 Valentino 30% 的股份,並有可能在 5 年內收購該品牌 100% 的股份!

相比於規模更大的競爭對手 LVMH ,第二季度由該公司 LV 和 Dior 時裝皮件部門銷售額增長20%之下,開雲集團勢必得做出改革重振,開雲集團董事長兼 CEO Francois-Henri Pinault 表示:「 結果並沒有達到我們的雄心和潛力,特別是 Gucci。」 Gucci 近日才宣布品牌首席執行官 Marco Bizzarri 將於9月離任,管理層改組旨在重振該品牌的銷售。

去年 11 月 Gucci 前創意總監 Alessandro Michele 離任,他與首席執行官 Marco Bizzarri 被大眾視為最佳搭檔,在位8年期間曾為 Gucci 帶來了突破 100億歐元的超高業績!不過近幾年 Gucci 的業績萎靡不振,導致品牌急於換血,而新創意總監 Sabato De Sarno 負責的首個系列要等到 9月才發佈,正在適應新的增長的企業和創意領導層,還未能達到市場預期。

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BERLIN, GERMANY - JUNE 12: Francois-Henri Pinault attends the Saint Laurent SS24 menswear collection presentation at Neue Nationalgalerie on June 12, 2023 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Gerald Matzka/Getty Images)
Above 開雲集團董事長兼 CEO Francois-Henri Pinault (Photo by Gerald Matzka/Getty Images)
BERLIN, GERMANY - JUNE 12: Francois-Henri Pinault attends the Saint Laurent SS24 menswear collection presentation at Neue Nationalgalerie on June 12, 2023 in Berlin, Germany. (Photo by Gerald Matzka/Getty Images)

按照地區區分,Gucci 銷售額由日本市場表現最為強勁,同比增長32%,亞太與歐洲分別增長10%與7%,北美則是大跌了23%。開雲集團首席財務官 Jean-Marc Duplaix 表示第二季度北美零售收入大幅下降,並補充說道:「北美是一個更加複雜的奢侈品市場。」

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Above GUCCI 2023 七夕情人節系列(Photo via Gucci)
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Above GUCCI 2023 七夕情人節系列(Photo via Gucci)

另外,開雲集團旗下時裝品牌Saint Laurent 、Bottega Venetta與 Balenciaga 都呈現放緩的趨勢,Saint Laurent 收入增長為6%,而 Bottega Venetta 上半年收入則是持平,Balenciaga 下跌5%,其中都與北美市場業務低迷影響有關。

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CHANTILLY, FRANCE - JULY 05: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Chateau de Chantilly on July 05, 2023 in Chantilly, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Above Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 show (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
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CHANTILLY, FRANCE - JULY 05: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Chateau de Chantilly on July 05, 2023 in Chantilly, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Above Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023 show (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
CHANTILLY, FRANCE - JULY 05: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Chateau de Chantilly on July 05, 2023 in Chantilly, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
CHANTILLY, FRANCE - JULY 05: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2023/2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week at Chateau de Chantilly on July 05, 2023 in Chantilly, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)

隨著投資者對 Gucci 持續表現不佳的擔憂加劇,開雲集團宣布將以 17 億歐元收購意大利時裝品牌 Valentino 30% 的股份!Valentino 的估值超過 50 億歐元,品牌在一份聯合聲明中表示,開雲集團有權在五年內 2028 年前收購 Valentino  100% 的股權,而 Valentino 目前所有者 Mayhoola 有可能成為開雲集團的股東。在此決議之前,Mayhoola 仍是擁有 70% 股本的大股東,並將繼續執行品牌並提升戰略。

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Keira Lu
Fashion Editor, Tatler Taiwan
Tatler Asia
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Keira Lu

Fashion Editor, Taiwan

keira.lu@tatlerasia.com