Photo courtesy of Pixiwoo

Marilyn Monroe may have said that imperfection is beauty, but she’s probably not referring to the dark circles and acne that come with a hectic lifestyle. However miniscule, these little blemishes can do a lot to undermine the glow of your skin, which makes concealers a crucial step in any makeup routine — even if you’re blessed with a great complexion.

Picking the perfect concealer can be as daunting as deciding on which phone to get: there’s such variance between tones, consistency and packaging, not to mention the right tools you need to attain the desired coverage. To make sure you’re doing your skin justice, we’ve inquired Nic Chapman and her sister, Sam — the brilliant minds behind Pixiwoo, one of the UK’s top beauty blogs — to debunk the myth behind this wondrous camouflaging tool. Keep reading to see how to completely obscure your flaws.

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Stick, Liquid or Cream?

Photo courtesy of Nars

Each type of concealer does something unique for different problem areas. Stick concealers are normally for pimples and other blemishes that require thicker coverage. “The reason for a drier and heavier formula is so that it doesn't move easily,” says Nic Chapman, blogger and co-founder at Pixiwoo. If you’re a cosmetics novice, the cream concealer is your safest bet: it’s a fuller coverage alternative that works for large areas of the face, and can be easily applied with fingers. 

Liquid concealers are also suitable for all areas of the face, but provides less coverage. Chapman finds them ideal for someone with few imperfections wanting to achieve a natural look. For dark under eye circles, look for a liquid concealer with a buttery base, such as the Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer. This product provides adequate moisture and prevents further fine lines in the eye area. Nars Event Artist Shirley Wong recommends applying setting powder on areas coated with the product for long lasting wear.

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 What About the Rest?

Photo courtesy of YSL Beauté

Pen concealers are optimal for brightening under eye areas. According to Chapman, most of them contain brightening agents that are meant to lift any darker and deeply sunken areas. They can often double as a highlighter and add dimension to your facial structure. YSL Beauté’s Touche Éclat, a frontrunner in the category, can be swept onto cheekbones, beneath the brows, across the bridge of the nose and onto the Cupid’s bow to enhance areas where the light falls on your face. 

The crayon-like pencil concealers are also capable of pulling double duty. Aside from dotting over the tip of your blemishes and correcting other intricate details, Chapman recommends applying them over the water line make the eyes look bigger and brighter.

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Set the Stage

Photo: ThinkStock/TopPhotoImages

It’s not just what products you use; where you use them is also a major factor of consideration. Make sure you’re facing natural light — somewhere in front of a window — so you can see which areas needs more blending and coverage.

There’s also a science behind the correct sequence. Make sure to prep your skin by applying moisturiser generously. Make sure to put on foundation before concealers. “Having that bit of moisture in your skin will help your concealer blend perfectly without dragging,” says Chapman. By then, you already have a light layer of makeup coating your imperfections, preventing you from using more concealer than needed.

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Brush Up

Photo courtesy of Real Techniques

If you’re one to smudge makeup on with your fingertips, we have bad news: According to Chapman, it’s better to use a concealer brush over fingers 99% of the time for effective blending. “The only time a brush may not be best is if you’re using a dry concealer,” Chapman says. “You’ll need the warmth and natural oils in the finger to help it blend.”

To hide redness on the cheeks, dabbing with a sponge blender will do the job perfectly. Real Techniques' Miracle Complexion Sponge is a great beginners’ tool. Then, take a brush and apply the concealer to the areas needed. Chapman suggests gentle dabbing, rather than wiping, to ensure better coverage.

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Mix Things Up

Photo: ThinkStock/pogrebkov

“I mix different concealers all the time,” says Sam Chapman, sister of Nic and the other half of the Pixiwoo empire. “I have dark under eye circles, so I often mix a light reflective pen with a cream or liquid, to combine the opacity and brightening qualities of both products.”

Even if you’re not as skilled as Chapman is, blending your concealers with colour correctors will still give your that extra mileage your regular concealer needs.  Having an understanding of tints is very important, and Chapman has walked us through the main varieties: green tones cancel out redness and are ideal for covering acne. Pink hues brighten up fair skin, while peach and salmon tones reduce the appearance of bruises. Caramel colours adds warmth to greyish discolouration on darker skin, while lavender shades light up sallow skin. Don’t be afraid to layer and experiment. Remember: you can always blend it out if things go awry.

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