Cover In 2021, Delphine Jelk was named a “Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres” by the French Culture Minister in recognition of her outstanding work as a perfumer at Guerlain
In 2021, Delphine Jelk was named a “Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres” by the French Culture Minister in recognition of her outstanding work as a perfumer at Guerlain
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Delphine Jelk channels the magic of a nocturnal superbloom in her latest and most powerful creation for Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria collection, Absolus Allegoria Florabloom
Delphine Jelk has been a perfumer at Guerlain for over a decade, driven by a fascination with the evocative power of scents and their ability to unearth deeply buried emotions. In her time at the maison, she has worked on a number of iconic Guerlain perfumes, from L’Homme Idéal and Mon Guerlain to L’Art et la Matière collection. Jelk views fragrance as an art form, a belief that is exquisitely embodied in her latest creation, Absolus Allegoria Florabloom. This new perfume is an enchanting and sensual floral bouquet, with notes of tuberose, sandalwood, and patchouli, inspired by the rare and magical phenomenon of a desert superbloom at nightfall.
We speak to Jelk about the process behind the new Florabloom, and what makes this floral scent so deeply unique.
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Can you elaborate on how you were inspired by a nocturnal superbloom in the Atacama Desert to create Florabloom Absolu?
When creating Florabloom, I envisioned a floral fragrance that is both realistic and imaginative. It features notes of tuberose, jasmine, rose, and violet, complemented by more abstract mineral facets that evoke the essence of rock. For the Absolu, I drew significant inspiration from the Belle de Nuit, a white flower that releases its scent only at night, capturing its mysterious allure.
What specific techniques or complementary notes did you use to reveal the more sensual facets of tuberose?
To reveal the more sensual facets of tuberose, I incorporated patchouli and sandalwood. These elements add depth and mystery to the fragrance, enhancing its sensual character.
The Absolus Allegoria collection is described as capturing the “striking contrasts of sumptuous Nature by moonlight.” How did you create this sense of contrast within Florabloom Absolu?
In Florabloom Absolu, the contrast is crafted through the juxtaposition of bright floral notes with the profound depth of sandalwood and patchouli. This interplay captures the striking contrasts found in nature, embodying the luminous florals against a darker, more enigmatic backdrop.
Above Guerlain Absolus Allegoria Florabloom
Above Florabloom Absolu is inspired by a rich bouquet of dynamic blooms
Guerlain Absolus Allegoria Florabloom
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What was the creative challenge in reinterpreting the Florabloom concept from the brighter Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum Forte into this more mysterious and sensual fragrance?
Transposing Florabloom from the lighter Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum Forte into the more mysterious and sensual Absolus was a fascinating challenge. I love the idea that the EDT evokes the emotion of the sun at its zenith, the EDP Forte captures the sunset, and the Absolu tells a story under the moonlight. These moments, aligned with the natural cycle of the earth, inspire my creations for the Aqua Allegoria collection.
The fragrance features a unique ‘Four O'Clock Flower accord.’ Could you tell us more about this specific accord and why you chose it to represent the heart of this nocturnal bouquet alongside notes of rose, ylang-ylang, and frankincense?
I chose the Belle-de-Nuit accord because it is a flower that releases its fragrance only at night. I translated this unique characteristic through notes of white flowers, ylang-ylang, rose, and incense, creating a nocturnal bouquet that is both captivating and mysterious.
The Aqua Allegoria collection is a manifesto for Guerlain's commitment to biodiversity, using over 90 per cent naturally derived ingredients. How does this commitment to naturalness and sustainability influence your creative process and the selection of raw materials, like those in Florabloom Absolu?
For the Aqua Allegoria collection, I always prioritise natural and naturally derived ingredients. Consider the tuberose pomade, which is not only natural through its flowers but also through the process involving the contact of tuberose with mango butter. This ancient extraction technique is both timeless and modern, reflecting our commitment to sustainability and natural beauty.
With the Florabloom collection now spanning three different fragrance intensities representing different times of day—zenith, sunset, and moonlight —what is the common thread that links these three creations?
The unifying element across the three intensities of Florabloom is the strong accord of tuberose with the mango butter note. This inspiration comes from the enfleurage technique used to create tuberose pomade, tying together the zenith, sunset, and moonlight moments of the day.
Emma Chong is the Managing Editor of Tatler Malaysia, overseeing the editorial direction and vision for the print, digital and social media arms of the title. She has over 15 years experience in fashion and lifestyle publishing, and has led print and digital editorial teams at ELLE Malaysia, Time Out Kuala Lumpur, The Luxe Nomad and more.
Outside of work, Emma spends her time wrangling children (only her own) and boosting the Malaysian economy through her support of local fashion and homeware brands.
