Beautiful woman looks in the mirror and squeezes out a pimple, facial care
Cover Beautiful woman looks in the mirror and squeezes out a pimple, facial care

Struggling with acne? A skincare expert shares her top tips on how to manage the skin issue with ease

Let’s cut to the chase and talk about acne. Even with the advancement of science and technology in the beauty space, this skin problem continues to plague people everywhere.

Beauty standards have somewhat changed over the years to include various skin types, tones and even textures. However, most of us would understand the pressure to achieve flawless skin and live up to certain ideals that we see in advertising campaigns or in the pages of glossy magazines. Remember when “glass skin” was a beauty trend? It’s an irresistible desire because who wouldn’t want clear skin?

But such desires are unrealistic. There are various factors that cause acne—from hormonal level changes to stress. Sometimes, even genetics play a part. And it’s normal to feel helpless in your journey to manage acne problems and treat them well.

Fundamentally, the most important step in one’s skincare routine is cleansing. We speak to Sarah Miller, licensed skin therapist and cosmetologist, as well as Master Instructor for Dermalogica, who tells us more about the science behind acne and tips to care for the skin condition.

Read more: Dermatologists' Face Mask Tips for Sensitive Skin

Tatler Asia
Above Sarah Miller

Can you suggest the top tips to manage acne breakouts?

Sarah Miller (SM): Cleansing is tip number one! It is very important to remove the pollution, sweat, skin cells, dirt, and more that accumulate throughout the day and as we sleep at night.

Two, would be washing your pillowcase regularly and wiping your cell phone. These small things can make a big difference to your skin’s health.

Three, find a simple regimen and stick to it!

Four, wear SPF now and your skin will thank you later. This will really help protect against post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (brown spots that can be left behind after an acne lesion goes away)

Finally, the top tip that helped me was learning that acne is normal and learning to embrace my skin. I was able to find the right routine for my skin to balance and manage my acne. I do still tweak it from time to time but be patient and know that it's okay to get a breakout sometimes. That has helped me so much to stop obsessing over it and being so hard on myself.

What products should we use? (Eg what type of cleanser?)

SM: Everyone’s skin is so different, so your regimen will depend on your skin type and skin condition.

Some examples: If you have acne and oily skin, the Breakout Clearing Foaming Wash from Clear Start is a great choice for your cleanser. If you have more sensitive skin with acne, you will want a gel cream cleanser.

What ingredients should we look out for and include in our regime?

SM: My favourite ingredients for acne sufferers are Salicylic acid, niacinamide (my favourite), sulfur, kaolin clay, hexylresorcinol, and hyaluronic acid to name a few.

What products or ingredients should we avoid? 

SM: I personally do not like benzoyl peroxide. It can be very drying and irritating to the skin. I also recommend avoiding harsh scrubs, those can cause micro tears in the skin and spread bacteria and open up acne lesions making them worse. Also, be careful with high-level acids. I love AHAs and BHAs but you want to be safe and not overdo it and use something that’s going to burn or overprocess your skin. Always make sure to observe your skin and if it's feeling sensitive or if a product burns. That is not normal or a good thing.

Is there a basic skincare regime that we should follow?

SM: Cleanse, tone, moisturise, and SPF. And exfoliate a few times a week or every day depending on the product! Finally, spot treat as needed when a pesky breakout comes to the surface!

How should we wash our faces and how often?

SM: At Dermalogica and Clear Start, we advocate double cleansing, especially for makeup wearers. So at night before bed, you would start with a cleansing oil. This removes oil-based debris from the skin (makeup, sweat, SPF, etc.). Think oil attracts oil, then you add water to create an emulsion and you will feel the oil breaking down and then you can rinse all of that away. 

Now your skin is ready to be cleansed with the appropriate cleanser for your skin type. My skin is acne prone and oily so I like to use the Breakout Clearing Foaming Wash from Clear Start. I foam it up with water and work it in avoiding my eye area for about 1 minute using upward strokes and light pressure, and then rinse with room temperature water.

The best way to think of cleansing properly is when you clean your house. First, you vacuum or sweep your floors, and then you would mop them. So we pre-cleanse first and then cleanse. I also cleanse my skin right when I wake up in the morning. Just like we brush our teeth twice a day. Our skin likes to be cleansed in the morning and night too!

Read more: Why Double Cleansing is an Important Skincare Step and the Best Ways to Do it

Best ways to prevent breakouts? (Eg the type of makeup products to avoid)

SM: This is a tough question and can be impossible for many people because acne can be genetic.

You may be doing every right and still get a breakout! The best thing for many of my clients is to recognize your specific breakout triggers as best as you can. For example, do you notice you get breakouts when you eat certain foods in excess? Or maybe you get breakouts right before your menstrual cycle or during increased times of stress? Well, that would be a good time to incorporate a salicylic acid cleanser into your routine and a serum or spot treatment to target those areas to pre-treat and hopefully prevent those breakouts from occurring.

Other tips to decrease the chances of breakouts: avoid pore-clogging ingredients like mineral oil, lanolin, artificial colours and fragrance. Make sure to remove your makeup at night fully before bed and drink lots of water daily!

What skincare habits should we practice on a daily basis?

SM: Avoid touching your face as much as possible, and be aware of things coming into contact with your face; are they clean or do they need to be wiped down real quick? Headphones, hats, hands? Always stick to your regimen even if it’s a simple one and keep your cleanser in the shower so you remember to cleanse daily!

What should we never do when we get pimples? (E.g. Avoid popping zits, avoid wearing too much makeup)

Less is more and skincare should not be painful. Do not hurt your skin. I have clients that pick and make themselves bleed. This is so harmful to your skin and long-term skin health and increases the chance of scarring. Do not believe every trend you see online telling you to use things like toothpaste or tape on your acne. This will make it worse and can harm your skin further!

Any other advice?

SM: Learning about ingredients and learning what your skin responds best to and loves! Skincare is not a one size fits all approach. It’s so important to pay attention to how your skin responds when introducing a new product. Skincare shouldn’t hurt or make your skin super red and uncomfortable. If your skin feels healthy and is glowing and hydrated after using a product that is key! 

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