Cover Bakuchiol and retinol: What's the difference? (Photo: Getty Images)
Bakuchiol and retinol: What's the difference? (Photo: Getty Images)
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They’re both called the ‘secret to long-lasting youth’, but what’s the difference? In this article, we explain the hype, resemblance, and dissimilarities of two of the most coveted ingredients in the skincare industry today
There is no shame in having undereye bags, jowls, and crow’s feet, but if you prefer a youthful appearance, there are products that can instantly transform and rejuvenate your face. Among the most sought-after formulas are bakuchiol and retinol, which experts trust when it comes to fighting and decreasing the signs of ageing.
While both promise instant lift and protection against harmful free radicals, each has a different mode of action and set of benefits. Bakuchiol, for instance, is a gentler alternative to retinol. On the other hand, retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A that aids in collagen production and skin renewal.
In this article, Tatler delves deeper into the use of both substances and their similarities and differences.
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What are Retinoids?
Above (Photo: Ron Lach/Pexels)
(Photo: Ron Lach/Pexels)
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Simply put, retinoids are a class of chemical compounds derived from Vitamin A, the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent. The term “retinoid” refers to Vitamin A's synthetic and natural analogues. This substance can directly initiate the transcription of relevant genes or potent dermatological agents used to treat acne, psoriasis, and other skin conditions.
Below are the types of retinoids:
- Tretinoin, Isotretinoin: These three are the first-generation active prescription strength retinoids. Doctors typically prescribe them for treatment of acne, anti-ageing, and other skin concerns like keratosis pilaris (small bumps on upper arms, legs, and buttocks) and hyperpigmentation.
- Retinaldehyde: This is the result of an oxidised form of retinol. This substance is ten times more powerful than retinol and is used with limitations.
- Retinol: Retinol is considered a milder form of retinoid than other derivatives. This formula needs retinaldehyde to convert to retinoic acid. Experts typically prescribe this to those who seek anti-ageing benefits and not active acne.
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Above (Photo: Karolina Grabowska/Pexels)
(Photo: Karolina Grabowska/Pexels)
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- Retinyl Esters: These are milder forms of retinoids as they require another molecule to be attached for effects. These are prescribed to people with sensitive skin.
- Tazarotene: This formula does not combat ageing unless used as an additional topical product for specific concerns such as photodamage and age spots.
- Adapalene: This third-generation retinoid is used for healing acne. It is also used against photo-ageing and age spots.
Side Effects?
Above Using retinol can cause 'skin purging' (Photo: Photo by Anna Nekrashevich/Pexels)
Using retinol can cause 'skin purging' (Photo: Photo by Anna Nekrashevich/Pexels)
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There are some factors to consider before applying retinol to your skin. Among these cases is ‘Skin Purging,’ which describes the pimple breakout that occurs before retinol works on your face. When retinol penetrates through the second layer of the skin (dermis), it neutralises free radicals, which are the culprit behind oxidative damage to the skin.
Some studies suggest that breakouts happen for first-time users of retinol because it pushes oil and skin debris to the surface.
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Besides purging, other initial damage caused by retinol may include dryness and peeling, redness and irritation, sunlight sensitivity, stinging, and skin discolouration.
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a natural alternative to retinol. Found in Psoralea Corylifolia (Babchi plant) used in Ayurvedic medicine, this formula has no structural and molecular similarity to retinol.
While this is the case, its functions are similar to retinol. Studies prove that it has the ability to generate new collagen, decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, lessen dark spots, and turn skin from sagging to firm.
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Above Bakuchiol is an extract from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (nicknamed "babchi"), a plant grown in India that's been a staple of traditional Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for many years. (Photo: Getty Images)
Bakuchiol is an extract from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (nicknamed "babchi"), a plant grown in India that's been a staple of traditional Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine for many years. (Photo: Getty Images)
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Can you use them together?
Research suggests that it is safe to use retinol and bakuchiol together. It was found that Bakuchiol has potent calming and stabilising properties that help retinol work better. It also helps the skin tolerate the latter.
Studies also reveal that Bakuchiol lets retinol work longer before breaking down after air and light exposure. People who use products infused with Bakuchiol and retinol are likely to see better results as it is difficult to stabilise Vitamin A.
People with very sensitive skin will also benefit from Bakuchiol as its soothing effects help them tolerate retinol (which initially causes breakouts).
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Jove holds a degree in Journalism and is currently pursuing graduate studies in Philosophy at the University of the Philippines–Diliman. She has flair for in-depth, interview-driven stories that explore politics and culture, shaped by her background in national broadsheets.
When she’s not on assignment, Jove spends her days painting, sipping lemonade, and walking her dog, Jupiter. She can often be seen in Escolta with a film camera in hand, browsing novelty shops in search of rare memorabilia. For leads, reach her at Jove@tatlerphilippines.com.
