What
A grower estate formed by Olivier Collin in 2004 with a parcel of vineyards from his family.
Where
Congy, Coteaux du Morin ; 8.7ha spread across the Coteaux du Morin and Côte de Sézanne.
Why
The 1.2ha Les Pierrières, in Congy, is the only parcel Collin vinified when he started in 2004; he has made this pure chardonnay on the same site since. It’s an especially chalky site strewn with black flint and iron-rich clay. The vines are 30+ years old. This particular parcel of 2015 was late-disgorged after 48 months for added complexity.
What else
Collin farms sustainably but doesn’t aim for organic or other certification, much like Selosse.
Tasting Notes
Nose has chrysanthemum tea, oyster shells and the aloof, greenish florals of a luxury florist shop. The palate adds green apple, grassy hints and a smoky salinity. The acid is intense but never sharp, carrying well past the finish. Phenolic texture is almost grainy, providing a satisfying “chew.”
Try It With
Sashimi and other raw fish dishes.
When To Drink
Entrées or Snacks.
Perfect For
Your champagne collector friend.
Tatler Tip
If you can wait, it opens up over the course of the evening, developing a beeswax richness.
TL/DR
Reticent, fine and intriguing.
Supplier
La Souveraine Fine Wine.