Ruppert-Leroy Puzzle de la Côte des Bar

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

70% Chardonnay; 30% Pinot Noir

Sweetness Level:

Brut Nature

Ageing on Lees:

~18 months

Price:

$$

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Culinary

What

A family of sheep farmers whose 1970 purchase in the Aube eventually led them to biodynamic viticulture and winemaking.

Where

Essoyes, Côte des Bars; 4ha divided into three parcels, of which Fosse Grely is the largest at 2.13ha.

Why

2021 was a particularly brutal harvest and so instead of trying to make their standard range of single-variety wines, particularly given their sulfite-free approach, Emmanuel Leroy and Bénédicte Ruppert decided to make a one-off cuvée using their grapes and those of Auboise friends with organic plots, a puzzle of a wine the likes of which, delicious as it is, will (hopefully) not be necessary again.

What Else

The original winery, built by Emmanuel himself, who has a construction background, was made with straw bale construction and was followed up by a log cabin that became their home.

Tasting Notes

This packs a powerful natural wine punchopening with a crab apple, coppery quality, but without going into caricature. The nose soon gains a pleasing biscuitiness with a passionfruit and tart pineapple tropical fruit character below. The coppery edge is clearer still on the palate, eventually offset by an Ovaltine malty character without ever really dwelling much on the fruit. The acidity feels jittery rather than linear and centred, giving a generalised sense of energetic tartness.

Try It With

Umami-rich tapas or Italian small plates

When To Drink

Entrées

Perfect For

The friend who taught you the term "minimal intervention"

Tatler Tip

This is a one-off cuvée, so if you love it, buy more

TL/DR

Edgy, natural style with a subtle tropical lean

Supplier

La Cabane a Vin