Piper-Heidsieck Essentiel Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
A top ten maison, known for its affable style and bold marketing, re-invigorated by the arrival of young, ambitious chef de cave Émilien Boutillat
Grape Makeup:
100% Chardonnay
Sweetness Level:
Extra Brut
Ageing on Lees:
3+ years
Price:
$$
Cellar:
Up to 5 years
Category:
Celebration
Photos
What
One of the top ten largest houses in champagne, known for its affable, pinot-driven style and bold marketing, newly invigorated by the arrival of young, ambitious cellarmaster Émilien Boutillat.
Where
Reims; 75 hectares of estate vineyards are shared with Charles Heidsieck.
Why
The Essentiel range was created as part of a push for greater transparency, with much more information shared on the label, including the amount of reserve wine (30%) and the year it was put into the cellars (which was 2017), an innovation from Charles Heidsieck. The wines also undergo extended ageing time and lower dosage. The Blanc de Blancs is a more recent development, with the 2013-based cuvée the first release. 2017’s potential over-ripeness seems to have been sharpened out here through the deft use of reserve wines.
What Else
Boutillat launched a series of ultra-exclusive releases called “Hors-Série” in 2021, each cuvée distinguished by something unique, whether that be the age of the wine, the time spent on lees, a unique blend or some other feature. The very first, the late-disgorged 1971, a gloriously creamy-textured but luminous cuvée made without malolactic fermentation (and thus remarkably well-preserved) was chosen for its symbolic linkage between the Piper of the past and future.
Tasting Notes
A seductive flinty sharpness on the nose is rounded out with beeswax, smoke, honey and grapefruit, giving a very fine and polished impression. There is plenty of yuzu fruit and body to cover the smoke on the entry, which nonetheless seems to have a sharp spine through the middle. The angles threaten to get out of hand on the back but the fruit likewise ups its intensity. Acidity, meanwhile, is pervasive and elevated, keeping everything very well balanced. Clicky phenolics and delicate bitterness on the back add nuance.
Try It With
Something crunchy and golden, like a stack of the most perfect salt and vinegar crisps.
When To Drink
Apéritif.
Perfect For
The friend who watches the Oscars every year without fail.
Tatler Tip
If you want to pronounce it correctly in French, go ahead with "PEE-puhr HEID-zek" or even "EID-zek," but nobody will think less of you for going with "Piper [like Pied Piper] Hide-zeek" (or at least I won't!).
TL/DR
Flinty, polished and tense.
Supplier
Northeast Wines & Spirits
