Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2007

What

A family-owned house with a vine-growing history dating to 1522, best known for its inimitable Clos des Goisses.

Where

Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 20ha estate vineyards mainly in the Marne.

Why

The 5.5ha Clos is a warm, south-facing site on a 45º slope with intensely chalky soils able to create single-site vintage wines in most years. Though the wine can be reticent when first poured, once its pungent top notes blow a wine of incredible profundity and power but also grace emerges. 2007 was a comparatively delicate vintage and is entering a first drinking window about now.

What else

The NV Royale Réserve has a baritone toastiness that coddles the palate.

Tasting Notes

Volatile notes lend both a metallic quality and a rich meatiness. The palate is very ripe with a rounded, enveloping middle but a firm, phenolic grain and acid to liven it up. Flavours are bold and warming: crystallised orange peel, blood oranges, exotic woods and sweat.

Try It With

Beef dishes: stir-fried or grilled. 

When To Drink

Main course

Perfect For

A wine lovers' gathering.

Tatler Tip

Give this time to open and blow off its volatility.

TL/DR

Bold, vinous and powerful.

Supplier

Connoisseur Wines and Spirits.