Philipponat Clos des Goisses 2014
The family-owned house known for Clos des Goisses, arguably the greatest single-site champagne
Grape Makeup:
71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay
Sweetness Level:
Extra Brut
Ageing on Lees:
8 years
Price:
$$$
Cellar:
10+ years
Category:
Collectible
Photos
What
A family-owned house (and erstwhile grower) with a vine-growing history dating back to 1522, best known for its inimitable Clos des Goisses.
Where
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 22 hectares of estate vineyards mainly in the Grande Vallée; 90% pinot noir, 10% chardonnay.
Why
Overlooking the Marne River and the Côte des Blancs, the 5.5 hectres Clos is a warm, south-facing site on a 45º slope with intensely chalky soils, which are able to create single-site vintage wines in most years thanks to temperatures ~1.5ºC above the rest of the region. Known for its rich, ripe, intense style, Goisses has a glorious balance in the relatively cool, wet 2014 vintage, with its savoury pinot-driven lushness wrapped around a rigid structure.
What Else
Le Léon from the house’s historic vineyard (owned by Philipponnat family members since 1522) in Aÿ Grand Cru is pure pinot noir vinified in barriques without malolactic fermentation and treated to a low dosage of 4.5g per litre; this has made for a smoky wine with salted quince and calamansi fruit – deliciously savoury.
Tasting Notes
Very dark, smoky and brooding – this has ripe fruit but a pungent salinity, with ozone and bitter almond offset by lacy acacia. There is plentiful ifi fruit on the palate: quince pâte de fruit, bergamot and honey but with incredibly fresh acidity that drives the structure hard, like an acidic spine supporting a rounded belly. This has everything: fruit richness, smoke, salt and a tantalising waxy texture on the finish.
Try It With
A classic meat dish, like roast beef or a T-bone steak.
When To Drink
Main course.
Perfect For
The friend who doesn't normally drink champagne.
Tatler Tip
This is the quintessential insider cuvée (although less and less as its popularity has grown); if you have an event to go to with wine cognoscenti, this is a great BYO option.
TL/DR
Potent, complex, perfectly complete.
Supplier
Connoisseur Wines
