Pertois Lebrun Chétillons Grand Cru Extra Brut No15

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

100% Chardonnay

Sweetness Level:

Extra Brut

Ageing on Lees:

Six+ years

Price:

$$$

Cellar:

Five to ten years

Category:

Culinary

What

A fifth-generation grower estate in Grand Cru Cramant is now managed by two brothers with contrasting characters, raised in Provence.

Where

Cramant, Côte des Blancs; 9.7ha in five Grand Cru villages: Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Oger, Oiry and two Premier Cru villages: Cuis and Villeneuve; 44 plots of Chardonnay, certified sustainable (HVE) since 2019 and Ecocert Organic since 2023.

Why

Le Mesnil’s Chétillon is a name that has developed some cachet among Champagne collectors, and this NV blend combines fruit from Chétillon (on the plain with pure chalk soils that give citric, saline fruit) with Chétillon de Haut (on the slope with chalky subsoils that add more roundness and fruit). The use of roughly 50/50 concrete tank and oak barrels for elevage and then very extensive lees ageing in bottle has added dense layers on this base, giving strong natural vibes but with a refined texture.

What Else

The brothers’ complementary characters, Clément is an idealist and nature lover, and Antoine is a rational former consultant, go quite a long way to explaining the style of this wine.

Tasting Notes

Very ginger biscuit and cola vibe, this starts with cinnamon syrup, bergamot, cedar, palo santo and sage, all quite forceful but attractive and refined, with just a hint of a wet clay yeasty quality. The palate has some bruised apple on the entry, with fresh ginger gradually seeping in. Acidity is very forceful and lifted by volatility, almost eye twitching on the back, which is very dry and tart. However, the texture is clean and polished, with a pleasing ginger biscuit toasty spice to finish. A very well-managed natural style.

Try It With

A crackle-skinned pork dish

When To Drink

Main course

Perfect For

Your friend who lives for craft cocktails

Tatler Tip

Perhaps not for your aged relatives, but perfect for anyone curious about natural wine.

TL/DR

Characterful and natural but with finesse.

Supplier

Omtis Fine Wines