Paul Déthune Extra Brut

Tatler Champagne Guide 2024-2025

Grape Makeup:

70% Pinot Noir; 30% Chardonnay

Sweetness Level:

Extra Brut

Ageing on Lees:

25 months

Price:

$ (V)

Cellar:

Up to five years

Category:

Celebration

What

An Ambonnay institution, in place since 1610.

Where

Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims; 7ha, 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay; sustainable (HVE) and in conversion to organics.

Why

The Extra Brut and its sibling the Brut Nature use a remarkable 50% reserves, coming from a solera with over 40 vintages that is kept in large wooden tanks. Even with relatively brisk lees ageing (about 25 months) this Pinot-heavy blend has come out with an incredibly flinty finesse that makes this almost absurdly affordable NV a dupe for some much more expensive bottlings.

What Else

Rumour has it that this deep-rooted estate once provided a substantial amount of fruit for Veuve Clicquot’s top wines, which is now being used for their own production.

Tasting Notes

This is assertively smoky, with a struck match, ozone and oceanic character, sharp lime fruit and verbena. Though it has a touch more dosage (unlike Déthune’s Brut Nature) it somehow feels even more pointed but also more expressive, with an almost Dom-like character — very tense, energetic and vibrant. There is slightly more fruit on the palate than the nose, like a Meyer lemon, a crisp, chalky texture and a cleansing bitterness to finish. Very attractive.

Try It With

Umami-rich hams or smoked fish

When To Drink

Apéritif

Perfect For

A champagne geek hangout

Tatler Tip

Bring along the Brut Nature too and you can spend the entire evening debating which one works better with the charcuterie.

TL/DR

Smoky, tightly coiled and vibrant

Supplier

Enoteca