
A much-admired grower estate in the Grande Vallée and the most famous in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay
Brut (Extra Brut level: 5.5g/L)
42 months
$ (V)
Up to 5 years
Culinary
Photos
A much-admired grower estate in the Grande Vallée and the most famous in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, known for the “mineral” savouriness of their old vine plots.
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne; 15 hectares, 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay.
This cuvée celebrates the old vines of Hébrart’s home village, with which the estate is inextricably linked, bringing together Jean-Paul Hébrart’s favorite plots. The intensely chalky soils here and the presence of these old vines, planted by selection massale (i.e. not a mono-clonal selection, providing much greater biodiversity), lend depth and sapidity to the blend.
Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, though only a Premier Cru, is home to the Clos des Goisses, one of the most famous single vineyards in Champagne.
The nose is super classic brioche and lemon curd, though with an edge of sour nuttiness, its nutmeg spiciness interwoven with crushed cider apple. Tart, incisive acidity arrives wrapped in sweetness, for an enticing sour/sweet effect. Quite a bit cleaner and more straightforward on the palate than expected from the nose, this gives a barley sugar toastiness on the back that is pleasing. The finish is a little confected, with a strong sense of sweetness on the end and no structural firmness to offset it, though it does have impressive persistence.
Powerfully flavoured and even spicy small plates, like Thai smoked eggplant salad.
Entrées.
The friend who introduced you to cultured butter.
Hébrart's wines are a great gateway drug for grower champagne; not too idiosyncratic or "intellectual", they still have some edge that will intrigue your geekier friends.
Classical with a spicy, sweet and sour edge.
Golden Gate Wines
