
The fourth largest-production house in Champagne, owned by Pernod Ricard since 2005
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
Extra Brut
10 years
$$$ (V)
5-10 years
Collectible
Photos
The fourth largest-production house in Champagne, given a major boost in quality since joining Pernod Ricard in 2005.
Reims; 218 hectares estate vineyards, of which 160 hectares are in Grands Crus, with substantial holdings in Ambonnay, Avize, Aÿ, Bouzy, Cramant, Mailly, Verzenay and Verzy; 78% pinot noir.
Lalou is the historic prestige cuvée of the house, created in honour of Mumm board member, terroir obsessive and patron of the arts René Lalou in 1966, but was lost between the 80's and its revival in the late 90's. It has always been an equal blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, the former coming from the Montagne de Reims and the latter from the Côte des Blancs, all from Mumm’s oldest plots. 2008 was a stunning, perfect vintage, creating a classical, elegant profile that shows both chardonnay’s verticality and the breadth of pinot.
All the RSRV cuvées are blends of Mumm’s Grand Cru terroirs reserved for “friends of the maison,” and were “launched” as a new collection in France in 2020, but many are historical cuvées like Lalou. The letters RSRV were used by past chefs de cave to indicate wines reserved for use by the family.
Very fresh and elegant and citrussy, like acqua di Parma, the nose is redolent with citrus leaf and bitter lemon rind with a fine toast point yeastiness. With a palate of lovely medium weight – classical, but like Beethoven rather than Mozart — this has a certain seriousness, with resinous conifer notes, very fine, salty lemon fruit, pencil shavings, and toast emerging mainly on the finish. Everything is seamless and beautifully balanced — protruding nowhere.
Elegant first courses involving poultry or crisp-skinned fish.
Entrées.
The friend who always arrives in a cloud of Acqua di Parma.
The inside of the foil capsule -- one of the most easily opened and neat that I encountered — is also printed with a map of Champagne villages.
Fresh, elegant and classical.
Pernod Ricard
